Frequently Asked Questions
Microcement is a fantastic product, that is unlike almost anything that is currently on the market. We expect you’ve got loads of questions about how it works, what it is and how to apply it.
Fortunately, we’ve been in the microcement industry for many years & acquired an in-depth knowledge on the products, processes & application of microcement.
We answer questions about microcement all day, every day. So, chances are, we can answer your questions too. Search the frequently asked questions below for a quick answer, or get in touch for anything more specific.
Microcement Information
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Is Microcement easy to apply? And will I/my Plasterer be able to do it?
Loads of DIYers and tradespeople, who are new to microcement, have completed successful installs.
All of our microcement kits have “Best for DIY” options, so DIYers can confidently choose the combination of products that is right for them.
We also offer a free online training guide for all the kits and there’s loads of other helpful guides on our microcement training page.
It will take 5 days to complete an install so it’s not a quick process, but long as you follow all the steps, without rushing the drying times or going on too thick with the products, then we’re confident you’ll be able to do it.
That said, not all the products are suitable for first timers, so it’s best to go for the product options that are marked “Best for DIY” or "DIY/Professional" on kit pages.
We will give you access to the online training for free when you order any of the kits. But there are two things that you'll need to bear in mind:
- Process – familiarise yourself with the process in advance, don’t skip any steps and respect the drying times.
- Technique – use the grain as a level, go as tight as you can with each coat, complete an area using small random trowel movements, then blend it into the previous section, removing any excess as you do so.
The process & technique are very similar whichever kit you choose, however they each contain products with small differences that make them more suitable for the end use.
As long as you follow all the steps, without rushing the drying times or going on too thick with the products then you should get a good finish.
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How does Cemher perform against competitor products like Forcrete & Epodex?
We've actually done some research on how Microne & Microne Plus compares to some of our competitors & performs very well in comparison.
Microne Plus has the same compressive strength as Forcrete's Micro Armour at 50N/mm2, but a much better Adhesion Strength at 5N/mm2 compared to 2N/mm2. Yet the emissions and chances of allergic reaction are much lower with Microne & Microne Plus versus Forcrete.
Epodex's microcement is not waterproof, it's reliant on the sealer to make it waterproof. We don't recommend this type of product for bathrooms, wet rooms or DIY installations, because it's difficult to avoid water staining & it has potential for leaks. Microne, on the other hand, meets the criteria of a tanking product, even before sealers have been applied. Epodex's surface hardness is also very low at 80N/mm2 vs 150N/mm2 for Microne & 180N/mm2 for Microne Plus.
We do have other results & other brand comparisons if there are any specifics that you are looking to compare, but the above should give you an idea of where we stand versus the competition.
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Can I get a bespoke sample made up?
As well as the swatch book, which contains all 56 colours in the range, we offer sample pouches of all the colours & most of the effects.
The sample pouches contain enough product to coat an A3 sheet of paper of the top coat.
If you need a bigger sample, of the full system, you can purchase a sample kit. These are available in a wider range of products, with enough product to complete 1m2 of microcement, this should give you a really good idea of the visual texture, colour & finish.
Get in touch for estimates and specifications for your samples: relentlessmicrocement.com/get-in-touch
For colour sample pouches click here: relentlessmicrocement.com/product-category/colours-effects
And for sample kits, visit: relentlessmicrocement.com/kits/microcement-sample-kit
It’s always best to get the installer who will be completing the installation to make up samples as each installer has their own technique which may be visible in the end result.
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How can I see more images of a colour in situ?
We have uploaded all the colour images that we have to the relevant colour in relentlessmicrocement.com/product-category/colours-effects
If you can't see an Image Gallery on a colour page, I'm afraid that means that we don't have any additional images in that colour. If so, I am sorry, we are working on getting more images uploaded all the time.
You can also look at the tagged images on instagram for other exaples from customers: instagram.com/relentlessmicrocement
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How long do I need to leave each coat to dry?
Drying times do vary depending on the products chosen & also on external conditions, like temperature & ventilation.
Here are approximate drying times for the most common products in each step, usually the installation process will take around 5 – 7 days from start to finish, with 48 hours after the last sealer has been applied to let it dry.
Step 1 Primers + Mesh Product Drying Time Primer 100 1 hour (max 12 hours) ImpriPox 12 – 24 hours Step 2 Base Coats Product Approx. Drying Time 1st Coat Approx. Drying Time 2nd Coat Microne Base 3 hours 3 hours Microne Plus Base 3 hours 3 hours Microdur Base 3 hours 3 hours before Microdur.
24 hours before Microne, Microne Plus, Microdur Plus.Microdur Plus Base 3 hours 3 hours before Microdur.
24 hours before Microne or Microne Plus.Step 3 Top Coats Product Approx. Drying Time 1st Coat Approx. Drying Time 2nd Coat Microne Coarse, Medium, Fine 3 hours 12 – 24 hours before Sealer Microne Plus Coarse, Medium, Fine 3 hours 12 – 24 hours before Sealer Microdur Medium, Fine 30 mins – 3 hours 24 hours before Sealer Microdur Plus Medium, Fine 30 mins – 3 hours 24 hours before Sealer Step 4 Sealers Product Approx. Drying Time 1st Coat Approx. Drying Time 2nd Coat AquaMax Pro 12 hours 48 hours AquaMax Pro 12 hours 48 hours MaxiPur 4 hours 48 hours MaxiPur 4 hours 48 hours Polyshield 12 hours 48 hours Please note: this is a quick reference guide only, not all products & processes are included, please see product installation guide for full details of product application.
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How can I learn to use Cemher Microcement? What training do you offer?
Our training is mostly online. We have step-by-step training guides for all the kits, including detailed installation videos.
You can view the online training here: relentlessmicrocement.com/microcement-training-and-installation-guides
If you scroll further down you'll see individual guides for all our products as well as surface prep guides, application techniques, after care & troubleshooting.
Often, installers start by buying a small kit and having a go. Once you order, you will get access to a training guide specific to the products you have. But this is an example course which shows the general steps: relentlessmicrocement.com/course/microcement-kit-training-course-example
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What’s the maximum temperature that Microcement can be exposed to?
We recommend Microdur & AquaMax for areas that will be exposed to high temperatures, because they have the highest levels of fire resistance.
Microne & Microne Plus are suitable for use up to 50°C, but should not be exposed to open flames, because they may soften & potentially discolour in temperatures over that.
So as long as temperatures don't exceed 50°C & it is not exposed to the open flame, you can use Microne or Microne Plus.
Generally, cooker hob & barbeque surrounds do not exceed 50°C, but it’s always worth checking with the manufacturer to be sure.
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What are the VOC emmision values of Cemher products?
The VOC emissions of all our products are significantly below the limits set by EU regulation.
For specific values, please refer to the certificates below:
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Are the colour samples accurate for colour?
The sample pouches contain a small amount of microcement top coat, in your chosen colour.
You can trowel or brush the colour onto white paper, there's enough to do around 1 x A3 sheet & let it dry.
There is always a small amount of variation between batches and product lines, but we've found that this is the best way to get the most accurate representation of the final colour.
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When should I schedule microcement into my build?
In our experience the best thing to do is not rush – get the screed in & cured for plenty of time, whilst other building work takes place.
Then get the under-floor heating commissioned & put through a full cycle, see how it impacts the floor before making a start.
At this stage, if there are cracks, high performance primer (epoxy, mesh & sand) is an option for strengthening the floor.
Once installed, you can run the heating again, see how it holds before applying the microcement.
Microcement should be classed as a surface finish, only to be applied once the majority of the build is complete. Often it is scheduled into too soon, which risks damage from other trades & settlement.
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What is Microcement?
Microcement is a cement-based surface coating that is applied by hand trowel in very thin coats over existing surfaces, like screeds, plastered or boarded walls, composite timbers etc. With a little more prep, it can also be applied over existing tiles.
It’s applied on site by hand trowel, for a completely seamless surface in bathrooms, wet rooms, worktops, furniture, walls & floors.
The composition of microcement varies between products & brands. In its basic form, it contains cement, quartz, polymers and additives. Often microcement is a powdered product that is mixed with resin or water to create a microcement mortar.
Cemher offer some more advanced microcement products, with a number of specific additional benefits vs. traditional microcements:
- Waterproof, even before sealers are applied
- Available in a wide range of colour & effects
- Options to add strength via the addition of hardeners
- Pre-mixed microcement, with unlimited working time for DIY use
The full microcement system has a finished depth is 3-4mm, is made up of:
- Primer & Fibreglass Mesh
- Microcement Base Coats
- Microcement Top Coats
- Sealer
For more information about the specific Microcement Products that we offer, visit: relentlessmicrocement.com/product-category/microcement-products
And for Microcement Kits, see: relentlessmicrocement.com/microcement-kits
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How much does Microcement cost?
To complete a successful install of microcement, you’ll need each of the following products in the correct quantities:
- Primer & Fibreglass Mesh
- Microcement Base Coats
- Microcement Top Coats
- Sealer
Prices vary depending on the products selected & the specific requirements of the job.
We offer the full microcement system from £24.72 per m2, with an average price of £40.50 per m2 for a standard bathroom kit. These prices include VAT.
Shipping will be worked out at checkout depending on the weight & shipping address.
All our kits are built to order to meet your specific requirements. To get an accurate estimate for your job, you can create a kit on our website now:
relentlessmicrocement.com/microcement-kits
Or get in touch for an estimate: relentlessmicrocement.com/get-in-touch
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What’s the difference between microcement & polished concrete?
Polished concrete is made by polishing the surface of a thick concrete slab. If you have a concrete slab already installed, it’s a fantastic way to get an impactful finish using pre-installed materials. It’s exceptionally strong and you can achieve some fantastic reflections in it.
It does take some time to polish the surface, and requires some quite industrial machinery, which means professional installation is a must.
Because you are polishing an existing surface, you won’t be able to control the texture & colour with polished concrete as you can with microcement.
There are natural variations in colour of concrete, depending on where in the country the concrete has been produced and differences in the stone colours, sizes and distribution.
So, you may find that a polished concrete surface is more varied in its texture than a microcement one. This works really well if you’re looking for a raw industrial feel.
Microcement is a surface finish that is applied by hand trowel on top of existing surfaces. It can be applied onto concrete slabs, screeds, self-levellers & boarded floors. So, it’s a great choice if you want the look of a concrete floor, but don’t actually have one.
You can choose the colour and effect that you want with microcement, because colour toners are added to the microcement before it is applied.
The appearance of Microcement is softer and warmer and the texture is more uniformly distributed. Often this is preferred in residential homes, and other interiors, where a more refined finish is more appropriate.
Concrete slabs require regular expansion joints to control cracking. Whereas microcement can be applied seamlessly, without the need for expansion joints. It is important to carry any existing expansion joints through to the surface.
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How is microcement applied?
Microcement is applied by hand trowel in very thin coats. The standard microcement system is made up of the following coats:
DAY 1
Primer & Mesh
- Cut Fibreglass Mesh sheets to size & lay over entire area
- Roll liquid primer over the mesh to prepare the surface
Base Coats
- Apply 1st Coat of Microcement Base by hand trowel
- Apply 2nd Coat of Microcement Base by hand trowel
DAY 2
Top Coats
- Sand Base Coat to flatten ridges
- Apply 1st Coat of Microcement Top Coat by hand trowel
- Apply 2nd Coat of Microcement Top Coat by hand trowel
DAY 3
- Leave to Dry
DAY 4
Sealer
- Sand Top Coat to tidy the surface
- Apply 1st Coat of Sealer
DAY 5
Sealer
- Apply final coat of Sealer
- Leave to dry for 48 hours before light use
This is a quick overview for guidance only, application & drying times vary depending on the products chosen.
For specific installation instructions please visit our comprehensive online microcement training, which includes detailed step by step instructions on how to apply microcement, including video tutorials, written guides & quick reference tables:
relentlessmicrocement.com/microcement-training-and-installation-guides
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Is Microcement waterproof?
The microcement that we recommend for bathrooms & wet areas is completely waterproof, even before sealers have been applied.
This is unusual in the microcement industry. As many microcement products and brands only offer microcement that becomes waterproof with the addition of a sealer coat.
When done properly & in the right environment, these products are great. But we never recommend microcement that is reliant on sealers to make it waterproof for wet areas, like bathrooms, wet rooms and shower areas.
If even a small amount of water finds its way to the microcement, through pinholes or gaps in the sealer, it will darken the microcement & look like a stain.
Its essential that Microne or Microne Plus are used in wet areas, to ensure you have the right products for a microcement bathrooms, choose our Microcement Kit for Bathrooms:
relentlessmicrocement.com/kits/microcement-kit-for-bathrooms
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How thick is Microcement?
The finished depth of the full Microcement system is 3-4mm.
That is made up of primer & mesh, 2 base coats, 2 top coats & sealer, each applied very thinly.
Microcement can’t be applied any thicker than this, or used to build up surfaces.
If its applied too thickly, it may crack and it won’t be as strong as it would be if applied correctly.
For more details on the correct application, see our guide to the correct application of microcement:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/correct-application-of-microcement
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Does microcement crack?
Microcement is a very flexible product so it won’t crack of its own accord.
There are some specific situations where cracks may form in the microcement surface, these are outlined below:
Cracks in the substrate
Microcement is a very thin surface finish, that is dependent on the surface that it is applied to for strength.
Cracks in the substrate, due to movement or settlement, can transfer through to the surface of the microcement, resulting in a visible crack in the microcement surface.
Most cracks in the substrate can be avoided by completing the surface prep correctly.
For more information on preparing surfaces correctly for microcement, see our Surface Prep guides:
relentlessmicrocement.com/microcement-training-and-installation-guides/surface-prep
Applied to thick
If its applied too thickly, microcement may crack in a crazing pattern, like a cracked egg-shell.
For more details on the correct application, see our guide to the correct application of microcement:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/correct-application-of-microcement
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Can microcement be applied over tiles?
Microcement can be applied over tiles, which might save some time & mess caused by ripping out old tiles.
Before you apply the microcement, you will need to flush out the grout lines with Joint Filler or another filler that is suitable for the substrate, so that the surface is completely flat.
relentlessmicrocement.com/product/cemher-joint-filler
To strengthen floor tiles, apply High Performance primer, AKA epoxy, mesh & sand blind over the tiles. This will fill the grout lines & bridge the joins between the tiles to strengthen the surface.
For full details of how to prepare tiled surfaces for microcement, visit these guides:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-wall-tiles-for-microcement
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-floor-tiles-for-microcement
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How long do microcement surfaces last?
Cement actually gets stronger over time, so, whilst a lot of the curing process takes place in the 1st 28 days, it will continue to gradual strengthen as time goes on.
So really there’s no limit on how long a well maintained microcement surface will last.
Regular cleaning will help to prevent dirt and marks from building up. This guide explains more on maintaining microcement surfaces: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/caring-for-microcement-surfaces
Floor Protect is a fantastic product for helping to build up the sealers gently over time:
relentlessmicrocement.com/product-category/microcement-products/microcement-sealers/floor-protect
But if you do start to see signs of wear & tear after a few years, it is also possible to give it a gentle sand & reseal, this will add an additional protective coat to the surface.
This guide explains the process of resealing the surface:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/resealing-microcement-surfaces
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How long will it take to complete the microcement installation?
For areas up to around 60m2, you can expect it to take 5 days to complete the installation. Over 60m2, you might need a little longer, if the area is over 60m2 depending on how many installers are working on it.
The general schedule is as follows:
Day 1: Primer, Mesh & 2 x Base Coats
Day 2: Top Coats
Day 3: Leave to Dry
Day 4: 1st Sealer
Day 5: 2nd Sealer
Day 6 & 7: Leave to dry
Light use can begin 48 hours after the last sealer has been applied. And full hardness is reached after 28 days.
This aftercare guide breaks down the do’s & don’ts over the 1st 28 days & beyond:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/caring-for-microcement-surfaces
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What colours, effects & finishes are available with microcement?
We’re incredibly proud of the many colour, effect & finish options that we’re able to offer. And you can create your own custom combination, so that you can get exactly the look you want out of thousands of possible combinations.
Microcement Colours
You can choose from 56 beautiful colours, covering a wide range of tones and shades. They all have a wonderfully earthy tone to them that stays true to the natural mineral qualities of microcement.
See all the colours here: relentlessmicrocement.com/product-category/colours-effects
Microcement Effects
There’s 3 standard effects and 6 special effects in the microcement range from Relentless Microcement.
Here’s a quick description of each of the effects:
Continuous Effect
Smooth & seamless with a subtle, cloudy appearance. High level of colour consistency. Movements from the hand trowel are gently visible in the surface for a soft, natural texture.
relentlessmicrocement.com/product/continuous-effect-107-swatch
Stucco Effect
Smooth, seamless effect with contrasting colour variation across the surface. High contrast effect for a visually textured aesthetic with a lighter and darker trowel marks visible in the finish. Stucco effect is available in limited colours.
relentlessmicrocement.com/product/stucco-effect-106-swatch
Coarse Effect
A soft, stony, slightly granulated effect with physical texture. Texturing is slight so that the surface is soft & gentle to touch, yet there is some undulation to the surface.
relentlessmicrocement.com/product/coarse-effect-105-swatch
Rustic Effect
Incredibly natural, stony patina for a time-weathered look. Clay based microcement with an organic aesthetic of earthy materials. This iconic natural product is available in one colour only.
relentlessmicrocement.com/product/rustic-effect-113-swatch
Two Tone Effect
Two colours blended for a two tone effect. The two tone effect is composed of a smooth medium top coat followed by a fine, smooth, almost translucent top coat. Whether you’d like soft tonal variation or dramatic contrast, you have complete freedom to choose your own colour combination.
relentlessmicrocement.com/product/two-tone-effect-115-swatch
Terrazzo Effect
Terrazzo Effect blends timeless terrazzo style with a sleek, minimalist finish. Smooth and seamless with natural stone coloured flecks, it brings a modern twist to classic terrazzo charm.
relentlessmicrocement.com/product/terrazzo-effect-102-swatch
Sparkle Effect
Sparkle Effect brings an elegant hint of shimmer to any space, blending refined microcement with delicate, light-catching flecks. The result? A smooth, seamless finish with just the right amount of glimmer—perfect for a subtle yet striking look.
relentlessmicrocement.com/product/sparkle-effect-103-swatch
Polished Concrete Effect
Polished concrete effect, most closely mimics polished concrete floors, with variations in tone creating a cloudy effect. Microne Medium is grouted with Microne Fine for a smooth, polished look, without the need for actual polishing.
Traditional Cloudy Effect
Traditional, mineral-based Microdur® is a strong, durable, versatile microcement with a natural, cloudy appearance. Reliant on sealers for waterproofing, so only recommended for professionals who understand & accept the risks.
Microcement Finishes
This applies to the sealer coat that is applied at the end of the microcement process. Choose between Matt, Satin & Gloss finish, matt is the least reflective, whilst gloss offers a high sheen.
You can view images of each of the finishes here:
relentlessmicrocement.com/product-category/colours-effects/finishes
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Does microcement fade in the sun over time?
All our microcement systems include a polyurethane sealer, this protects the microcement from UV rays & is itself non-yellowing, so you can be sure the colour won’t fade over time or become yellow in direct sunlight.
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Is microcement slippery?
No, microcement is rated Class II for non-slip, this means that it is suitable for use in wet areas, like showers and won’t become slippery, even when wet.
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Do you provide microcement training?
Yes, we are committed to providing the highest quality training and support for our customers. We offer free, comprehensive online training courses and bespoke on-site training that cover everything from the basics of application to advanced techniques and finishes.
Our training courses are led by our experienced and knowledgeable instructor, Richie, who has years of experience working with microcement. He’ll guide you through every step of the application process, from surface preparation to final sealing, ensuring that you have the skills and knowledge needed to create stunning microcement surfaces.
In addition to our training courses, we also provide ongoing support and guidance for our customers. Our team of experts is always available to answer your questions and provide advice on everything from product selection to application techniques and maintenance.
Whether you’re just starting out with microcement or you’re looking to take your skills to the next level, our training courses and support services can help you achieve your goals. Contact us today to learn more about our training options and how we can help you master the art of microcement application.
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Can you help me find a microcement installer?
Yes, absolutely, we have good relationships with microcement installers across the country and would be happy to introduce you to some in your area.
Just for complete clarity, whilst they do use our products regularly, we are not affiliated with them, we’ll just sharing their contact details for your information. Any agreement that you make with them is between yourselves.
Please get in touch if you would like us to send you a list of installers in your area.
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How do I get a good finish with Microcement?
There are a few golden rules, that it's really important to follow, if you want to get a good finish with microcement:
It's extremely important that you get the surface prep right. You're aiming for a clean, dry, completely flat surface, that's free from movement.
Familiarise yourself with the process in advance, don’t skip any steps and respect the drying times.
Finally, use the grain as a level, go as tight as you can with each coat, complete an area using small random trowel movements, then blend it into the previous section, removing any excess as you do so.
Thankfully, we've got all this covered, with our easy to follow, free online microcement training.
From surface prep right through to aftercare, our online microcement training is packed full of step by step guidance, tips and tricks, to give you the knowledge and practical skills to tackle your project with confidence.
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How does microcement compare to tiles?
Microcement is an extremely versatile and hard-wearing material that is becoming increasingly popular in modern interior design. It’s a practical and visually stunning material that’s perfect for use in bathrooms and wet rooms.
One of the main advantages of using microcement in a bathroom is its seamless finish. Unlike tiles, which have visible grout lines, microcement can be applied in continuously, creating a smooth and uniform surface. This not only looks great but also makes cleaning much easier, as there are no grout lines to trap dirt and bacteria.
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Is microcement expensive?
Historically, microcement has been quite a niche product, with just a few installers charging high prices.
However, we strongly believe that everyone should enjoy the benefits of microcement. So, we’ve focused our efforts on making microcement more affordable and accessible to everyone.
We’ve worked hard to make our microcement kits affordable, with kits starting from less than £30 per m2.
And we’ve developed a whole load of free online training guides, including bespoke training courses for every customer.
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Are all microcement brands & products waterproof?
Not all microcements are completely waterproof, the natural minerals in the mix make them very porous. The microcements are sealed to make them waterproof. Which means that if the sealer gets scratched or there isn’t sufficient coverage of it, then water can get to the microcement and stain it.
Thankfully, Cemher have developed a number of microcements that are 100% waterproof, even without sealers. These products have revolutionised the industry, making microcement a much more viable choice for DIYers and Professionals looking for extra reassurance.
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What are the delivery lead times?
We hold a large amount of stock in the UK so that we can aim to get products delivered to you within the following timelines (from the date of placing your order):
- UK mainland: 1 – 3 working days
- Isle of Wight: 2 – 4 working days
- Northern Ireland, Scottish Highlands, Off-Shore Islands: 7 – 10 working days
To ensure you get the best possible value, the cost of your delivery is worked out at the checkout and will depend on the weight of the items that you have purchased and the location.
For more details on our delivery policy see: relentlessmicrocement.com/delivery-policy
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Do you offer trade discounts or trade accounts?
The prices on the website are for trade already, so we can't offer any further discount.
You can set up an account on our website, by clicking here: relentlessmicrocement.com/my-account
You’ll find this useful for accessing invoices & training information, as well as tracking orders.
We don’t offer payment terms; orders won’t be despatched until they have been paid for.
Choosing Between Products
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Can I use the same microcement on internal floors & out onto patios?
You can use the same microcement on internal floors and out onto external patios, but there are some limitations to using microcement on outdoor surfaces & a specific type of microcement that you can use.
This guide will tell you everything you need to know about which external surfaces you can (& can’t) microcement onto:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-outdoor-patios-for-microcement
If you want to apply the same product on both internal & external surfaces, it’s best to choose a product that is suitable for the external surface & replicate that inside too.
The Microcement Kit for Outdoor Surfaces contains only products that are suitable for outdoors.
relentlessmicrocement.com/kits/kits-microcement-kit-for-outdoor-kitchens-furniture
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What’s the difference between the microcement for bathroom floors & walls?
You’ll notice that the microcement kit for bathrooms asks for the no.m2 on floors vs. walls & ceilings separately.
This doesn’t mean there’ll be any visible difference between the surfaces. The microcement itself is exactly the same, so that you will get a completely seamless, continuous finish across all the surfaces.
The only difference is that the mesh for floors is a thicker grade, so more resilient to the increased forces that floors are subjected to.
There are also more primer options for floors, where you can choose High Performance Primer, which will strengthen the floor & help to prevent movement transferring through to the surface.
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What’s the difference between Microdur & Microne?
Microdur is a traditional, microcement, that comes in a powdered form and is mixed with water to make a mortar. The mortar has a working time of around 2 hours once mixed.
Microdur creates a beautifully natural patina, with a distinctive cloudy effect, and has a hard surface finish.
It is also a very porous microcement, and only becomes waterproof once it has been sealed.
Microne is a pre-mixed mortar with an unlimited working time. It is waterproof even before sealers have been applied.
This makes Microne ideal for wet areas like bathrooms, wet rooms & showers. It’s also great for DIY & first time use, as it is less dependant on the application of the sealers for longevity.
Microdur is a cost effective option, and we often suggest it as a base coat on large floors, where it will be protected by a top coat & sealer.
Generally, Microne isn’t as strong as Microdur. To increase the strength of Microne, you can upgrade to Microne Plus.
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What’s the difference between Microne & Microne Plus?
The addition of Microne Plus Comp B to Microne adds strength, increase impact resistance, stain resistance and heat resistance. So, it's great for things like floors & worktops & it works really well in conjunction with under floor heating.
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Should I upgrade the sealer, microcement or both?
The main thing that you will achieve by upgrading the Microcement, is increased strength.
For example, the compressive strength of Microne is 28N/mm2, whilst Microne Plus has a compressive strength of 50N/mm2. For surfaces that are likely to get a lot of traffic, like main living spaces and entrance halls, this extra strength helps to reduce the chances of scratches or dents from appearing in the surface over time.
The sealers add strength too, but the main benefit of them is to improve the overall stain resistance of the floor. So, if you expect the floor to be regularly subjected to spills, then you might prefer to invest in upgrading the sealer.
Of course, if you upgrade both, you will have a stronger, more stain resistant surface. So well worth considering this option if your budget allows.
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What products should I choose for my bathroom?
We do appreciate there are a load of options in each of the kits, and it can be a little overwhelming to know where to start.
This quick guide will help you to make sense of the kit builder, so that you can choose the right options to suit your bathroom.
Choose Effect
This is the fun bit, scroll through each effect to decide how you want your bathroom to look. There’s loads of pictures of each effect to give you an idea of how it’s going to look in the space.
Best Seller: A lot of customers choose Continuous Effect, for gentle texturing, that is available in all colours.
Choose Colour
Another fun one, there’s loads of colours to choose from, just try to get a swatch book or sample before you order, so you can be sure it’s exactly what you want.
Best Sellers: These change over time, but Stucco White, El Alamo, Piedra de Lago, Concrete, Malta, Rain Cloud & Titanium are all up there as popular choices.
Choose Primer
This is where it starts to get a little more technical. And you might need a different primer for floors & walls.
When selecting Primer for Floors, the general rule is:
For screeds & other continuous surfaces, you can choose Standard Primer & Mesh.
For boarded floors & tiles, choose High Performance Primer.
Fresh screeds that are very absorbent need Mesh & Extra Primer.
The general primer selection for walls is:
Standard Primer & Mesh for all surfaces except Fresh Plaster. which needs Mesh & Extra Primer.
Choose Finish
There’s no rules here, just choose the finish that you want, performance is the same for all the sealers, choose the level of sheen that suits your project best.
Best Seller: Matt is the most popular choice for bathrooms.
Upgrade your Kit
The standard spec is a really good combination for most residential bathrooms.
If it’s a commercial space, or you want a belt & braces option, you might want to think about adding strength by upgrading the microcement.
Or increasing the stain resistance by upgrading the sealer.
-
What products should I choose for my walls?
What kit combination should I choose for my walls?
We do appreciate there are a load of options in each of the kits, and it can be a little overwhelming to know where to start.
This quick guide will help you to make sense of the kit builder, so that you can choose the right options to suit your walls.
Choose Effect
This is the fun bit, scroll through each effect to decide how you want your walls to look. There’s loads of pictures of each effect to give you an idea of how it’s going to look in the space.
Best Seller: A lot of customers choose Traditional Cloudy Effect, for lots of visual movement, that is available in all colours.
Choose Colour
Another fun one, there’s loads of colours to choose from, just try to get a swatch book or sample before you order, so you can be sure it’s exactly what you want.
Best Sellers: These change over time, but Stucco White, El Alamo, Piedra de Lago, Concrete, Malta, Rain Cloud & Titanium are all up there as popular choices.
Choose Base Coat
This is where it starts to get a little more technical. For walls outside of wet areas, Microdur Base is a good cost effective options, it’s combined with water on-site and has a working time of around 1-3 hours.
Choose Microne Base for the easiest, this base coat is pre-mixed & ready to use.
Choose Primer
Choose standard Primer & Mesh for all surfaces except Fresh Plaster. Which will need Mesh & Extra Primer.
Choose Finish
There’s no rules here, just choose the finish that you want, performance is the same for all the sealers, choose the level of sheen that suits your project best.
Best Seller: Matt is the most popular choice for walls.
Upgrade your Kit
The standard spec is a really good combination for most feature walls.
If it’s a commercial space, or you want a belt & braces option, you might want to think about adding strength by upgrading the microcement.
Or increasing the stain resistance by upgrading the sealer.
-
What products should I choose for my floors?
What kit combination should I choose for my floors?
We do appreciate there are a load of options in each of the kits, and it can be a little overwhelming to know where to start.
This quick guide will help you to make sense of the kit builder, so that you can choose the right options to suit your floors.
Choose Effect
This is the fun bit, scroll through each effect to decide how you want your floor to look. There’s loads of pictures of each effect to give you an idea of how it’s going to look in the space.
Best Seller: A lot of customers choose Continuous Effect, for gentle texturing, that is available in all colours.
Choose Colour
Another fun one, there’s loads of colours to choose from, just try to get a swatch book or sample before you order, so you can be sure it’s exactly what you want.
Best Sellers: These change over time, but Stucco White, El Alamo, Piedra de Lago, Concrete, Malta, Rain Cloud & Titanium are all up there as popular choices.
Choose Base Coat
This is where it starts to get a little more technical. For walls outside of wet areas, Microdur Base is a good cost-effective options, it’s combined with water on-site and has a working time of around 1-3 hours.
Microne Plus Base is another good option for strong, waterproof, durable floors.
Best Sellers: Microdur Base & Microne Plus Base
Choose Primer
This is where it starts to get a little more technical. And you might need a different primer for floors & walls.
When selecting Primer for Floors, the general rule is:
For screeds & other continuous surfaces, you can choose Standard Primer & Mesh.
For boarded floors & tiles, choose High Performance Primer.
Fresh screeds that are very absorbent need Mesh & Extra Primer.
Choose Sealer
All the sealer options are high quality. But it’s definitely worth considering an upgrade to Solvent Based Sealer if the floor is in a main living area, which you expect to get a lot of use.
High Performance Sealer, Polyshield is absolutely for professional use only.
Best Seller: Solvent Based Sealer
Choose Finish
There’s no rules here, just choose the finish that you want, performance is the same for all the sealers, choose the level of sheen that suits your project best.
Best Seller: Satin is a most popular choice for floors.
Upgrade your Kit
We’d highly recommend upgrading to Microne Plus for floors in main living areas or high traffic areas. This will increase the strength of the floor considerably.
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What products should I choose for my worktop?
We do appreciate there are a load of options in each of the kits, and it can be a little overwhelming to know where to start.
This quick guide will help you to make sense of the kit builder, so that you can choose the right options to suit your worktop.
Choose Effect
This is the fun bit, scroll through each effect to decide how you want your bathroom to look. There’s loads of pictures of each effect to give you an idea of how it’s going to look in the space.
Best Seller: A lot of customers choose Continuous Effect, for gentle texturing, that is available in all colours.
Choose Colour
Another fun one, there’s loads of colours to choose from, just try to get a swatch book or sample before you order, so you can be sure it’s exactly what you want.
Best Sellers: These change over time, but Stucco White, El Alamo, Piedra de Lago, Concrete, Malta, Rain Cloud & Titanium are all up there as popular choices.
Choose Primer
This is where it starts to get a little more technical.
Standard Primer & Mesh for all surfaces except very absorbent surfaces, which need Mesh & Extra Primer.
If there are a lot of joins in the worktop, that you would like to strengthen, choose High Performance primer.
Choose Finish
There’s no rules here, just choose the finish that you want, performance is the same for all the sealers, choose the level of sheen that suits your project best.
Best Seller: Matt is the most popular choice for worktops.
Upgrade your Kit
Since worktops get a lot of intensive use, we would highly recommend an upgrade to Microne Plus about adding strength by upgrading the microcement, if your budget allows.
And increasing the stain resistance by upgrading the sealer.
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What products should I choose for my furniture?
We do appreciate there are a load of options in each of the kits, and it can be a little overwhelming to know where to start.
This quick guide will help you to make sense of the kit builder, so that you can choose the right options to suit your furniture.
Choose Effect
This is the fun bit, scroll through each effect to decide how you want your floor to look. There’s loads of pictures of each effect to give you an idea of how it’s going to look in the space.
Best Seller: A lot of customers choose Continuous Effect, for gentle texturing, that is available in all colours.
Choose Colour
Another fun one, there’s loads of colours to choose from, just try to get a swatch book or sample before you order, so you can be sure it’s exactly what you want.
Best Sellers: These change over time, but Stucco White, El Alamo, Piedra de Lago, Concrete, Malta, Rain Cloud & Titanium are all up there as popular choices.
Choose Base Coat
This is where it starts to get a little more technical. For surfaces outside of wet areas, Microdur Base is a good cost-effective options, it’s combined with water on-site and has a working time of around 1-3 hours.
Microne Base is another good option for ease of use, it’s also waterproof, so great for wet areas.
Best Sellers: Microdur Base & Microne Base
Choose Primer
This is where it starts to get a little more technical.
Standard Primer & Mesh for all surfaces except very absorbent surfaces, which need Mesh & Extra Primer.
If there are a lot of joins in the furniture, that you would like to strengthen, choose High Performance primer.
Choose Sealer
All the sealer options are high quality. But it’s definitely worth considering an upgrade to Solvent Based Sealer you’re expecting your furniture to get a lot of use.
High Performance Sealer, Polyshield is absolutely for professional use only.
Best Seller: Water Based Sealer
Choose Finish
There’s no rules here, just choose the finish that you want, performance is the same for all the sealers, choose the level of sheen that suits your project best.
Best Seller: Matt is a popular choice for furniture.
Upgrade your Kit
The standard spec is a really good combination for most furniture.
If it’s a commercial space, or you want a belt & braces option, you might want to think about adding strength by upgrading the microcement.
Or increasing the stain resistance by upgrading the sealer.
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What products should I choose for my steam room?
The options for Steam Rooms are limited, because there are only certain products that are suitable for the intense heat & moisture that steam rooms are subjected to.
Choose Effect
This is the fun bit, scroll through each effect to decide how you want your floor to look. There’s loads of pictures of each effect to give you an idea of how it’s going to look in the space.
Best Seller: A lot of customers choose Continuous Effect, for gentle texturing, that is available in all colours.
Choose Colour
Another fun one, there’s loads of colours to choose from, just try to get a swatch book or sample before you order, so you can be sure it’s exactly what you want.
Best Sellers: These change over time, but Stucco White, El Alamo, Piedra de Lago, Concrete, Malta, Rain Cloud & Titanium are all up there as popular choices.
Choose Primer
This is where it starts to get a little more technical.
Standard Primer & Mesh for all surfaces except very absorbent surfaces, which need Mesh & Extra Primer.
Choose Finish
There’s no rules here, just choose the finish that you want, performance is the same for all the sealers, choose the level of sheen that suits your project best.
Best Seller: Matt is a popular choice for furniture.
Upgrade your Kit
Choose Sealer
Both sealer options are high quality. But it’s definitely worth considering an upgrade to Solvent Based Sealer you’re expecting your steam room to get a lot of use.
Best Seller: Solvent Based Sealer
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What products should I choose for my outdoor surfaces?
We do appreciate there are a load of options in each of the kits, and it can be a little overwhelming to know where to start.
This quick guide will help you to make sense of the kit builder, so that you can choose the right options to suit your bathroom.
Choose Effect
This is the fun bit, scroll through each effect to decide how you want your bathroom to look. There’s loads of pictures of each effect to give you an idea of how it’s going to look in the space.
Best Seller: A lot of customers choose Continuous Effect, for gentle texturing, that is available in all colours.
Choose Colour
Another fun one, there’s loads of colours to choose from, just try to get a swatch book or sample before you order, so you can be sure it’s exactly what you want.
Best Sellers: These change over time, but Stucco White, El Alamo, Piedra de Lago, Concrete, Malta, Rain Cloud & Titanium are all up there as popular choices.
Choose Primer
This is where it starts to get a little more technical.
When selecting Primer, the general rule is:
For screeds & other continuous surfaces, you can choose Standard Primer & Mesh.
For boarded surfaces & tiles, choose High Performance Primer.
Fresh screeds that are very absorbent need Mesh & Extra Primer.
Choose Finish
There’s no rules here, just choose the finish that you want, performance is the same for all the sealers, choose the level of sheen that suits your project best.
Best Seller: Matt is the most popular choice for outdoors.
Upgrade your Kit
Because they are open to the elements, we strongly advise adding strength by upgrading the microcement, if your budget allows.
And increasing the stain resistance by upgrading the sealer.
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What products should I choose for my sample kit?
To create a sample that most closely replicates the surface that you will eventually be installing, choose the microcement that is the closest match the one that you are considering.
You may find it easier to start on a full microcement kit page and figure out the options that suit you best there, before moving over to the sample kit page & replicating the options there.
Because sample kits are made to order, not all of the product options are available in sample kit sizes.
Visually, Microne & Microne Plus are very similar, so you can choose Microne for the sample.
Likewise, Microdur will give you a similar visual appearance to Microdur Plus.
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What products should I choose for my liquid metals kit?
We do appreciate there are a load of options in each of the kits, and it can be a little overwhelming to know where to start.
This quick guide will help you to make sense of the kit builder, so that you can choose the right options to suit your walls.
Choose Effect
This is the fun bit, scroll through each effect to decide how you want your walls to look.
Choose Base Coat
If there are any joins or imperfections in the wall that you are going to be applying mcirocement to, it’s essential that you use a base coat. This will build out the surface, so that you have a uniform surface to apply the microcement onto.
If it’s a completely flat wall e.g. plastered or painted, you may be able to skip the base coat & apply just a very thin coat of liquid metal instead.
Choose Primer
Choose standard Primer & Mesh for all surfaces except Fresh Plaster. Which will need Mesh & Extra Primer.
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Are microcement worktops heat & stain resistant?
The stain resistance mostly comes down to the sealer. When the surface is smooth and well sealed, all the sealers that we offer perform very well against oil & food splatters. It is best to wipe spills up rather than leaving them to soak in which can cause a issue.
Heat resistance is good, but we wouldn't recommend putting pans directly from the stove onto work surfaces. The addition of "Plus" to Microne or Microdur improves the heat resistance significantly.
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Can I use microcement on a fireplace?
We recommend Microdur & AquaMax for fireplace hearths and surrounds because they have the highest levels of fire resistance.
This combination of products can withstand temperatures in excess of 100°C, so they are more than sufficient for use around log burners and on the hearths and other fire surrounds, as long as it won’t be exposed to open flames.
We don't have a product that is suitable for inside fire recesses, unless you can be sure the temperature won't exceed those quoted above.
Microne & Microne Plus are suitable for use up to 50°C, but should not be exposed to open flames, or temperatures above 50°C because they may soften & potentially discolour.
For estimates and suitable specifications, please get in touch: relentlessmicrocement.com/get-in-touch
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Can I use a sample kit to complete small area?
We don’t generally recommend using sample kits to do full installations. The products are decanted by hand into small quantities, which are only intended to create samples.
The sealers especially can’t be relied upon to sufficiently coat surfaces in wet areas, for example.
If you do still want to have a go with a sample kit for full installation. We would certainly recommend purchasing a full 1l+200ml AquaMax Pro to seal any wet areas.
relentlessmicrocement.com/product/cemher-aquamax-pro-floors
You could also remove the sample size AquaMax Pro from the basket.
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Can I use a sample pouch for touch ups?
Touch ups work best when the microcement that you are touching up with is the same as the microcement that you used on the original installation.
All the products are colour matched back to the swatch book, but there are some differences between the appearance of each product, which does impact the colour & how well they will blend into one another.
All the sample pouches contain Microne Continuous Medium. So, if that’s what you used for your original order, then you should get a fairly good match with it.
If not, it would be better to get a 1kg sample of the microcement that you used originally.
It’s important to note that we can't guarantee it will be an exact match with your original installation, because batches change & colour tones can change over time.
You will also need to seal the surface once it has been touched up. Aquamax Pro for walls is the most cost-effective option & will be sufficient for covering small touch ups:
relentlessmicrocement.com/product/cemher-aquamax-pro-for-walls
For more information on touching up microcement, visit this guide:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/touching-up-microcement
For 1kg samples, please get in touch relentlessmicrocement.com/get-in-touch
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Can I use AquaMax Pro for Floors on walls & visa versa?
Yes, you can use AquaMax Pro for Floors on walls.
In fact, because it is a stronger sealer than the AquaMax Pro for Walls, we recommend that you use it as standard instead of the product walls in bathrooms & on worktops.
For this reason it is the default selection in our Microcement Kit for Bathrooms:
relentlessmicrocement.com/kits/microcement-kit-for-bathrooms
Can I use AquaMax Pro for Walls on Floors?
No, this product isn’t strong enough for use on floors. The addition of the extra Comp B hardener, makes the AquaMax Pro for Floors more hardwearing.
Can I add more Comp B hardener to AquaMax Pro for Walls?
Yes, you can add 2 x 100ml AquaMax Comp B for Walls to AquaMax Pro Comp A 1l. This will make it stronger & therefore suitable for use on floors.
We don’t sell the Comp B separately, but if you get in touch, we can create a bespoke order for you:
Choosing The Right Surfaces
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What surfaces can I apply microcement onto in Bathrooms & Wet Rooms?
Microcement is very versatile & can be applied to most surfaces, as long as they meet the criteria outlined in this guide:
- Surface Prep Essentials: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/essential-prep-for-all-surfaces
These guides explain the pros & cons of the common surfaces that you might be considering for your bathroom, wet room or shower area:
- Choosing the Best Surfaces for Microcement Bathrooms & Wet Rooms: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/choosing-the-best-shower-trays-for-microcement
- Choosing the Best Shower Trays for Microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/choosing-the-best-shower-trays-for-microcement
- Is Tanking Required for Microcement?: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/is-tanking-required
There’s a load more information on specific surfaces that you might be thinking of applying microcement to in our Surface Prep Guide:
relentlessmicrocement.com/microcement-training-and-installation-guides/surface-prep
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Can I use microcement outdoors / on external surfaces?
You can use microcement on outdoor surfaces, as long as they meet the criteria outlined in our guide to Surface Prep Essentials:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/essential-prep-for-all-surfaces
It is important that the substrates are suitable for outdoor use. And you also need to be sure that no moisture can get to the underside of the microcement. So, we don’t tend to recommend it for ground level patios.
The guide below explains more about when you can (& can’t) use microcement on external substrates:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/choosing-preparing-outdoor-surfaces-for-microcement
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What internal floor surfaces can I apply microcement onto?
You can use microcement on almost all internal floor surfaces, as long as they meet the criteria outlined in our guide to Surface Prep Essentials Guide:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/essential-prep-for-all-surfaces
You can apply microcement onto the following surfaces. Click the links below for more details on how to prepare them.
Boarded Floors including OSB, Ply & Cement Board
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-boarded-floors-for-microcement
Floor Tiles
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-floor-tiles-for-microcement
Concrete, Screeds & Self Leveller for Microcement
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-concrete-screeds-self-leveller-for-microcement
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What internal wall surfaces can I apply microcement onto?
Microcement is very versatile and can be applied to almost all internal wall surfaces, as long as they meet the criteria outlined in the following guide:
- Surface Prep Essentials: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/essential-prep-for-all-surfaces
The prep work required does vary depending on the substrate that it is being applied to, generally solid, flat surfaces, like plastered walls require less prep work than boarded surfaces.
Here are some of the commonly used surfaces, with details on how to prepare them correctly for microcement:
- Preparing Plasterboard for Microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-plasterboard-walls-for-microcement
- Preparing Cement Board for Microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-cement-board-walls-for-microcement
- Preparing Wall Tiles for Microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-wall-tiles-for-microcement
- Preparing Bricks & Blockwork for Microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-bricks-or-blockwork-for-microcement
- Preparing Painted & Plastered Walls for Microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-painted-and-plastered-walls-for-microcement
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What are the best surfaces for applying microcement onto in Steam Rooms?
It’s important to check with the manufacturer of the steam room system that you will be using to understand what their specific requirements are before installing substrates in steam rooms.
The Microcement itself is very versatile & can be applied to most surfaces, as long as they meet the criteria outlined in this guide:
- Surface Prep Essentials: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/essential-prep-for-all-surfaces
These guides explain the pros & cons of the common surfaces that you might be considering building your Steam Room out of:
- Choosing the Best Surfaces for Microcement Bathrooms & Wet Rooms: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/choosing-the-best-shower-trays-for-microcement
- Choosing the Best Shower Trays for Microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/choosing-the-best-shower-trays-for-microcement
- Is Tanking Required for Microcement?: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/is-tanking-required
If you already have surfaces in place, then you can jump straight to the specific guides for each surface, which are listed below. The main surfaces that are used in bathrooms, are listed below:
- Preparing Aqua4ma & Rigid Shower Trays for Microcement relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-rigid-shower-trays-for-microcement
- Preparing Kudos Aqua4ma Panels for Microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-kudos-aqua4ma-panels-for-microcement
- Preparing Painted and Plastered Walls for Microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-painted-and-plastered-walls-for-microcement
- Preparing Plasterboard for Microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-plasterboard-walls-for-microcement
- Preparing Cement Board walls for Microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-cement-board-walls-for-microcement
- Preparing Wall Tiles for Microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-wall-tiles-for-microcement
- Preparing Boarded Floors for Microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-boarded-floors-for-microcement
- Preparing Floor Tiles for Microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-floor-tiles-for-microcement
- Preparing Tile-On Boards for Microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/prep-for-tile-on-boards
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Can Microcement be Used in Steam Rooms?
The microcement that we recommend for steam rooms, Microne Plus is suitable for use in temperatures up to around 50°C, so as long as the temperature of the steam room system doesn’t exceed that, you can use microcement.
Microne Plus is very good at resisting water vapour, so as long as all open edges are siliconed to prevent moisture getting behind it, it’s a really great choice for steam rooms.
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Can Microcement be Used in Saunas?
Because Saunas reach very high temperatures, over 100°C in some cases, we only recommend Microdur & AquaMax. These have the highest levels of fire resistance & can be heated to temperatures far in excess of 100°C.
Microdur is dependent on the sealer to make it waterproof, so is recommended for installation by microcement professionals only.
Get in touch for help with estimates and specifications.
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Which shower trays are suitable for applying microcement to?
We always recommend using a rigid shower tray with microcement. The microcement is applied in very thin coats, so it needs to be laid onto a solid surface.
Choose an Aqua4ma shower deck or a rigid shower tray that is suitable for microcement or vinyl floors. And then follow the guidance below to prepare it for the microcement application.
This guide explains more about what to look out for when selecting a shower tray for use with microcement:
- Choosing the Best Shower Trays for Microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/choosing-the-best-shower-trays-for-microcement
And this guide explains how to prepare the shower tray:
- Preparing Aqua4ma & Rigid Shower Trays for Microcement relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-rigid-shower-trays-for-microcement
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Can Microcement be Used in Swimming Pools?
We currently don’t have a product that is suitable for use in swimming pools.
Swimming pools require full submersion for prolonged time periods, outdoor pools also need some permeability to prevent moisture building up from ground water.
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What are the best surfaces to build microcement furniture out of?
Microcement is incredibly versatile, you can apply it to almost any rigid surface.
So, it’s ideal for coating bespoke furniture, like vanity units, tables, side boards and more.
It can also be used to up-cycle existing surfaces, like table-tops and cupboard doors.
You can microcement onto plywood, OSB (chipboard), laminate or MDF, but if there is any chance of water getting to the microcement, then marine ply or cement board is preferable.
This guide explains more about the essential prep that is required for all surfaces: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/essential-prep-for-all-surfaces
And this guide will help you to choose the best surfaces for furniture and how to prepare them:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-furniture-for-microcement
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What are the best surfaces for applying microcement onto for Worktops?
You can microcement onto plywood, OSB (chipboard), laminate or MDF, but if there is any chance of water getting to the microcement, then marine ply or cement board is preferable.
This guide explains more about the essential prep that is required for all surfaces: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/essential-prep-for-all-surfaces
And this guide will help you to choose the best surfaces for worktops and how to prepare them: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/essential-prep-for-all-surfaces
Colour & Effect Information
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Can I get the Cemher Effects from Relentless Microcement?
Relentless Microcement is the exclusive UK distributor of Cemher Microcements. We work very closely with them, but some of our naming structures are slightly different.
The effects that are mentioned in Cemher’s catalogue / website, are finishes that you can achieve with standard Cemher products that we have in stock in the UK.
Here's a short description of which product to use to achieve each of the Cemher effects:
Natural Collection
Traditional: Microdur Medium
Balasto: Microdur Medium
Petra: Microne Medium Continuous
Granza: Microne Coarse
Vulcano: Microdur Thick Base
Industrial Collection
Ethereal: Microne Medium Stucco
Uzino: Microne Fine Continuous
For the mineral based microcements, the “stucco” effect is achieved by using the fresh on fresh technique. There is a detailed explanation of how to do this in our Microcement Training & Installation Guides.
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What are the RAL codes for the Relentless Microcement colours?
The Relentless Microcement colours are completely bespoke to us, so they don't have RAL equivalents.
If you’re hoping to match it with a paint, the only option would be to take a sample to a decorator centre to see if they can match it.
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Can you colour match to paint colours?
I'm afraid we can't create bespoke colours or offer a colour matching service. There are 56 colours in the swatchbook, so hopefully there is one that is close to what you're looking for.
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Can I make my own colour, lighten or darken the mix?
We can send colour toners separately and you can also buy additional colour toners, that you can add to the tub to try to create a bespoke colour.
Please just make it clear when you order that you would like the colours to be kept separate, as we do normally add the colour straight in to the tub for Microne & Microne Plus top coats.
Obviously if you are mixing colours yourself, there are no guarantees as to what the end result will be.
What if I just want to lighten the colour?
The 2 options for lightening the colours are:
- Add less colour toner to the tub
- Add white colour toner to the mix
What if I want to darken the colour?
The 2 options for darkening the colours are:
- Add more colour toner to the tub
- Add black colour toner to the mix
Just be aware that both these options can occasionally have unexpected results.
Mix Accurately
To be sure that you can recreate the colour, you'll need to weigh out the colours very accurately & make a note of the quantities used. For colour accuracy, ensure the colours are mixed well & use scales that are accurate to 0.01g.
Pro Tip: You can get around this by mixing the colour toner with water & adding a percentage of the mix to the tub. If you do this, make sure the maximum combined volume is no more than 1l.
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What is the difference between the Effects?
By using a combination of different top coats and application techniques, you can achieve a load of different effects with microcement.
Here’s a quick summary of each of the effects, so that you can understand more about what effects are on offer & main differences between them:
Continuous Effect
Smooth & seamless with a subtle, cloudy appearance. High level of colour consistency. Movements from the hand trowel are gently visible in the surface for a soft, natural texture.
Stucco Effect
Smooth, seamless effect with contrasting colour variation across the surface. High contrast effect for a visually textured aesthetic with a lighter and darker trowel marks visible in the finish. Stucco effect is available in limited colours.
Coarse Effect
A soft, stony, slightly granulated effect with physical texture. Texturing is slight so that the surface is soft & gentle to touch, yet there is some undulation to the surface.
Sparkle Effect
Contains glass crystals that bring added sparkle for an eye-catching finish to elevate every the surface. A refined blend of black, clear, brown and grey glass crystals.
Terrazzo Effect
A balanced blend of black, grey, brown & white terrazzo flakes are added to the microcement for a timeless effect without limitations.
Rustic Effect
Incredibly natural, stony patina for a time-weathered look. Clay-based for an organic aesthetic. Available in one iconic colour only.
Two Tone Effect
Two colours blended for a two tone effect. Whether you’d like soft tonal variation or dramatic contrast, you have complete freedom to choose your own colour combination.
Traditional, Cloudy Effect
Traditional, mineral-based Microdur® is a strong, durable, versatile microcement with a natural, cloudy appearance. Reliant on sealers for waterproofing, so only recommended for professionals who understand & accept the risks.
Polished Concrete Effect
Polished concrete effect, most closely mimics polished concrete floors, with variations in tone creating a cloudy effect. Microne Medium is grouted with Microne Fine for a smooth, polished look, without the need for actual polishing.
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Are there colour differences between the different products / effects?
The colours are all matched back to the swatch book, but because each product has a slightly different effect/appearance, there may appear to be some slight differences in colour between different microcements.
Wherever possible, it’s best to use the same top coat across all surfaces, but that is, of course dependent on whether the top coat is suitable for the use in all cases.
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What is the specification of the colour swatches?
Some of the effects are added to 100mm square colour swatches.
In case you are wondering, these are the specs for each type of swatch that send out:
Microcement Effects: Microne Continuous, Stucco & Coarse in Titanium with Matt finish
Special Effects: Montblanc with Matt finish
Liquid Metals: No Sealer
Sealer Finishes: Microne Continuous in Titanium
You can see all of the colours & effects samples here: relentlessmicrocement.com/product-category/colours-effects
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Why isn’t Stucco Effect available in all of the colours?
The tonal variation in Microne Medium Stucco is achieved by the addition of more quartz, which blackens (or burnishes) under the steel trowel. This works really well in grey scale colours. But in the lighter colours the blackening can look like dirty marks in the finish.
You can also get movement in the Microne Continuous Effect, by using the fresh on fresh technique, as explained in this video: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/applying-microne-medium
The name "continuous" is a little misleading, it isn't flat like paint, it just has more gently movement, and even that can be exaggerated using the right trowel technique.
Preparing Surfaces
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Can you microcement onto a breeze block wall?
The surface that you are microcementing onto needs to be completely flat before the microcement is applied. So you can’t apply micorcement directly onto a breeze block wall. You will need to prepare the surface first.
Because microcement is very thin, with a finished depth of just 3-4mm, it can only be applied to a flat surface.
You can either overboard the breeze black wall or apply a cement render over it to get it smooth for microcement.
This guide explains more about preparing breeze block walls for microcement:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-bricks-or-blockwork-for-microcement
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Can you use microcement in a Damp Basement?
Since there is a risk of moisture getting to the underside of the microcement, you can't go directly onto the surfaces with microcement. Instead, you will need to use a suitable tanking product to tank the surfaces before applying microcement.
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How do surfaces need to be prepared for microcement?
Microcement is incredibly versatile, it can be applied to almost any substrate. But because it is trowelled very thinly, at just 3-4mm finished, it is very dependent on the surface that it is applied to for it’s strength & appearance.
This guide outlines the “golden rules” for preparing surfaces for microcement that must be followed in every case:
Essential Prep for all Surfaces: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/essential-prep-for-all-surfaces
The prep work required does vary depending on the substrate that it is being applied to & the state of the existing surface.
Some surfaces are easier to apply microcement to than others.
Our Surface Prep Guides detail all the common surfaces that you might be thinking of applying microcement to & explain in detail how you can prepare them so that they meet the necessary criteria.
relentlessmicrocement.com/microcement-training-and-installation-guides/surface-prep
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Is tanking required for microcement?
As long as there is no risk of movement, tanking is not required because the microcement will act like a tanking sytem.
If the tanking system is already in place or you want to use one for extra piece of mind. You’ll need to make sure the tape is firmly fixed to the wall – especially along internal corners.
You’ll also need to flush it out so that you have a flat surface to microcement onto, as the microcement will follow the contours of the surface that it’s going onto.
This guide explains more about tanking & the prep required for it:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/is-tanking-required
If you are still at the planning stage, then this is the ideal set up for microcement wet room:
Use a hard shower tray that is suitable for microcement and vinyl floors. Firmly fix the shower tray in place to eliminate the chance of movement.
Board shower area walls right down to the shower tray. Ensure boards are firmly fixed in place.
Silicone the joint between the boards & the shower tray/floors. Do not smooth out the silicone, leave to dry overnight and razor scrape off the excess. No silicone should be left on the surface.
There should be no gaps in any of the surfaces that are to be microcemented.
Ideally walls will be Aqua4ma panels or plaster boarded and skimmed. But you can go onto other surfaces with microcement, just let us know what you are planning and we can send you the relevant guidance on prep.
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Is it OK to use MDF as the substrate for Microcement in wet areas?
You can apply microcement on MDF, but it's better to use marine ply or cement boards in wet areas, because, if water gets to the MDF, it can doesn't cope well with it.
The only way to avoid water damage to the MDF is to fully coat all sides of each piece with microcement so that no water can get passed it to the MDF.
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How do you prepare Aqua4ma Wet Room Systems for Microcement?
This is the ideal system for wet rooms, the panels are completely waterproof and rigid. And the solvent weld bonds the tongue and groove edges of the panels together very well. The solvent weld can also be used to flush joins between panels & cures within 30 minutes allowing you to sand it flat.
Here's the information for preparing Aqua4ma panels for microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-kudos-aqua4ma-panels-for-microcement
And here are the install guides for the Aqua4ma panels:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/installing-kudos-aqua4ma-shower-decks
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How do you prepare Boarded Floors for Microcement?
The process is exactly the same for all boarded floors: OSB, Plywood, Cement Board. Once the boards are well glued & screwed in place, you will need to apply epoxy, mesh & sand blind aka High performance Primer, scroll down for detailed instructions on that process too.
Here's the information for preparing boarded floors for microcement:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-boarded-floors-for-microcement
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How do you prepare Cement Board Floors for Microcement?
It’s important that all boarded surfaces, including cement board floors are completely flat & free from movement before the microcement is applied.
Because there are joins in the floor, we recommend applying high performance primer over the boards, this adds strength to the surface & helps to prevent movement transferring through to the surface.
Here's the information for preparing boarded floors, including cement board floors for microcement:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-boarded-floors-for-microcement
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How do you prepare Concrete, Screed, Self Leveller Floors for Microcement?
Concrete, screeds and self-levellers are ideal surfaces to apply microcement to. Generally, they are flat and continuous, which is perfect for microcement.
It is important that the surfaces meet the following criteria before you start. These are covered in more detail here: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-concrete-screeds-self-leveller-for-microcement
- Cured to less than 5% moisture content
- Special prep for anhydrite screeds
- Put underfloor heating through a full cycle
- Repair cracks before starting microcement
- Never microcement over Cold Joints/Expansion Joints
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How do you prepare Furniture for Microcement?
Microcement is very versatile & can be applied to a wide range of materials to make furniture.
Timber composites like MDF, Plywood & OSB (chipboard) are good for building furniture out of before applying microcement. But you can also apply microcement to older furniture to give it a new lease of live.
Surfaces must be well consolidated, completely flat & free from movement.
Here's the information for preparing furniture for microcement in more details:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-furniture-for-microcement
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How do you prepare Internal/External Corners for Microcement?
To get nice tidy corners with the microcement, it’s essential that the prep work is done right, surfaces need to be completely flat & free from movement.
This guide demonstrates how to prepare internal and external corners, with this is mind:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-internal-and-external-corners-for-microcement
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How do you prepare Outdoor Surfaces / Furniture for Microcement?
Our microcement range includes a number of products that can be used outdoors. This guide tells you everything you need to know about choosing the right surfaces & doing the prep right:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/choosing-preparing-outdoor-surfaces-for-microcement
There are some limitations when it comes to ground level patios.
Read the guide below for full details of when to use it and how to prepare surfaces accordingly:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-outdoor-patios-for-microcement
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How do you prepare Paint, Plaster, Plasterboard Walls for Microcement?
If you’re installing microcement onto a plastered or painted wall, then a lot of the work will have been done for you already.
The wall should be completely smooth and free from any movement before you apply microcement.
Visit our guide on preparing Painted and Plastered Walls for Microcement for more information on the process: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-painted-and-plastered-walls-for-microcement
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How do you prepare Saunas, Steam Rooms for Microcement?
Whilst microcement is very strong, smooth & flexible, it relies entirely on the surface (aka substrate) that it’s going onto to make it completely smooth and free from movement.
The surface must be flushed out and the chance of movement eliminated before microcement is applied.
This guide explains more about preparing steam rooms for microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-steam-rooms-for-microcement
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How do you prepare Tile On Boards Walls & Floors for Microcement?
Tile-On Boards, like Wedi Boards, Marmox & Jacko Boards aren’t compatible with microcement on floors. They don’t have adequate compressive strength to hold the microcement rigidly.
Microcement can be applied to wall boards, but since they are fixed in place with large washers, that require a lot of flushing out, they require a lot more prep than some of the alternatives.
This video explains more about the limitations & explores some alternatives: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/choosing-the-best-surfaces-for-microcement-wet-rooms-bathrooms
If you already have Tile-On Boards installed, then this is the guidance on preparing them for microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/prep-for-tile-on-boards
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How do you prepare Tile On Shower Trays for Microcement?
Tile-On Shower Trays aren't compatible with Microcement, because they aren’t strong enough to take the product. Often the waste is set too high for microcement as well, preventing water from flowing down the drain.
This video explains more about why they aren’t suitable & explores some alternatives: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/choosing-the-best-shower-trays-for-microcement
If you have a Tile-On Tray that has already been installed, then this is the guidance on preparing it for microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/prep-for-tile-on-boards
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How do you prepare Tiles Floors for Microcement?
It’s important that the surface is completely flat & free from movement before the microcement is applied.
To achieve this with floor tiles, you can either use joint filler to flush out the grout lines: relentlessmicrocement.com/product/cemher-joint-filler
Or for added strength, apply high performance primer over the surface.
This guide goes into loads of detail about each of the processes for preparing Tiled Floors for microcement:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-floor-tiles-for-microcement
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How do you prepare Tiles Walls for Microcement?
Because the microcement can only be applied on a completely flat surface. The grout lines will need to be filled in advance. Joint Filler is a great product for flushing out grout lines, it dries quickly & sands easily. relentlessmicrocement.com/product/cemher-joint-filler
This guide demonstrates the full process of preparing Tiled Walls for microcement:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-wall-tiles-for-microcement
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How do you prepare Underfloor Heating for Microcement?
Once the screed or self-leveller is cured to with 5% moisture content, it’s important that the underfloor heating is commissioned & put through a full cycle before the microcement is applied. This will help to force out any movement cracks, which can then be repaired in advance of the microcement application.
Here's our full guide on using microcement on top of Underfloor Heating:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/using-microcement-with-underfloor-heating
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How do you prepare Worktops for Microcement?
To avoid any problems with moisture getting to the underside of the microcement, we generally recommend building worktops out of marine ply or cement board, especially if the worktop is to be installed around a sink.
Once installed, the joins between the boards & screw holes will need flushing out, with a suitable filler & sanding back to get a smooth surface.
Here's some more detailed information on preparing Worktops for microcement:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/choosing-preparing-worktops-for-microcement
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Are Aqua4ma Panels compatible with Underfloor Heating?
You can install electric underfloor heating under or over the Aqua4ma panels.
If you install them over the underfloor heating, you will need to lay the heating wires, then screed over, then install the panels with flexible tile adhesive applied with a notch trowel.
If you install the heating on top of the panels, then you will need sufficient depth of screed, as recommended by the underfloor heating & screed manufacturers to give a solid, stable base for the microcement to be applied at a depth of 3-4mm.
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When should I use angle beads, stop beads or expansion beads with Microcement?
We don’t recommend using angle beads with microcement. The microcement itself is a strong product, so doesn’t tend to need support in the corners. It’s also very thin, so angle beads would need flushing out before the microcement is applied.
You may decide to use a stop bead to bridge the join between the microcement and another surface.
For expansion joins, be sure to use an expansion joint allow movement along the join right through to the surface of the microcement.
It’s usually more straightforward not to use angle beads or stop beads, but if they are already installed here is our guide to preparing them for microcement, as well as a demonstration of the alternative approaches:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/using-angle-beads-stop-beads-and-expansion-beads-with-microcement
The guide also explains the best approach to control / expansion joints, which do need to be followed through to the surface of the microcement.
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Can decoupling matts be used with microcement?
We don't recommend using decoupling matts with microcement, because microcement is a very thin coating which needs to be applied to a solid surface. Since decoupling matts allow for movement on the surface, they're not compatible.
Instead, it's best to build a solid base. Either by applying high performance primer directly to floor grade tongue & groove boards. Or, in the case of underfloor heating, applying screed or self leveller directly over the under floor heating, then applying microcement onto that.
There is more detail on surface prep for those build-ups here:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-boarded-floors-for-microcement
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-concrete-screeds-self-leveller-for-microcement
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/using-microcement-with-underfloor-heating
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What are the best Surfaces to apply Microcement to?
Microcement is very versatile & can be applied to most surfaces, but some require more prep work than others.
Generally, you’re aiming for a completely flat surface that is free from movement. For this reason, screeds on floors & plastered walls are ideal.
You can apply it to a wide range of other surfaces too. You might just need to do a little extra work to get it ready for the microcement.
Visit our surface prep guides for more information on the specific prep required for each surface:
relentlessmicrocement.com/microcement-training-and-installation-guides/surface-prep
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How do you prepare Beam & Block Flooring for Microcement
Microcement can’t be applied directly to beam & block flooring. Before the microcement is installed, the surface needs to be completely flat and free from movement.
Your builder / flooring contractor can advise the best way of meeting these requirements. But generally, the beam & block flooring will be overlaid with a cement screed before microcement can be applied.
For more information on preparing beam & block flooring for microcement, see: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-beam-block-flooring-for-microcement
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How do you prepare Bricks or Blockwork for Microcement
Because microcement, is applied very thinly, it can’t be applied directly to bricks or blockwork. Before the microcement is installed, the surface needs to be made completely flat.
You can either board over the surface or apply a cement render over it, to get a flat surface before applying the microcement.
This guide explains more about achieving a nice flat surface, ready for microcement:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-bricks-or-blockwork-for-microcement
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How do you prepare Outdoor Patios for Microcement
Outdoor surfaces need to be waterproofed (so that no moisture can build up on the underside of the microcement, or above ground level.
The external edges of the microcement must also be siliconed so not water can get behind it.
The following guide give more detail on preparing outdoor surfaces for microcement:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/choosing-preparing-outdoor-surfaces-for-microcement
Limitations on Ground Level Patios
We don’t generally recommend using our microcement on ground level patios, since they are constantly exposed to ground water both below and around the external edges, which is very hard to control even when a damp proof membrane is installed.
For more information on preparing outdoor patios for microcement, see our guide: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-outdoor-patios-for-microcement
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How do you prepare Shower Trays for Microcement
Microcement can only be applied to a rigid surface, so it’s important to choose the right shower tray & do the prep right.
This guide will help you to choose the best shower tray for microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/choosing-the-best-shower-trays-for-microcement
And this guide explains how to prepare rigid & Aqua4ma shower trays for microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-rigid-shower-trays-for-microcement
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How do you build microcement sinks?
The easiest way to build a microcement sink, is to use a pre-formed undermount sink.
Cut the countertop to size & fit the undermount sink or basin firmly in place, so that movement is eliminated.
Next flush out the join between the sink & countertop with a suitable filler. You can use Joint Filler for this:
relentlessmicrocement.com/product/cemher-joint-filler
Make sure both the countertop, sink & the join between them meet the following guidelines:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/essential-prep-for-all-surfaces
Then you can go ahead & start the microcement process.
Once complete, silicone the join between the sink & the waste, using the same technique that you would for shower wastes:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/applying-silicone-to-the-join-between-microcement-shower-wastes
Application Techniques
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What should I do about bubbles appearing in the mesh whilst I’m applying microcement?
If you’re getting bubbles in the mesh whilst using Primer 100, slash the bubble with a knife or the edge of the trowel and go over it again with the roller, this should stick it back down flat to the surface.
If you notice bubbles after the Primer has dried or whilst you are applying your first base coat, you can use the same technique to flatten the bubble whilst applying your 1st Base Coat.
This guide explains how to deal with bubbles that appear in the mesh during application: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/fixing-bubbles-in-fibreglass-mesh-during-application
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Is it possible to recoat the microcement surface after sealers have been applied?
Yes, you can recoat the mirocement after sealers have been applied, but you need to follow these steps:
- Give the surface a good sand to give it a key & flatten any ridges / thicker areas which will remove any cracks
- Prime the surface with Primer 100, then wait around 1 hour
- Apply 2 top coats (you will probably find that the 1st goes on a bit grainy, which is why we recommend 2)
- Reapply the sealers
This guide explains more about the process of recoating microcement surfaces: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/recoating-microcement-surfaces
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Can I recoat a microcement surface before the sealers have been applied?
Whether you want to change the colour or aren’t happy with the appearance, it is quite straight forward to apply an additional coat as long as the sealers haven’t been applied.
This is a summary of the process for recoating before sealers:
- Give the surface a good sand to give it a key & flatten any ridges / thicker areas which will remove any cracks
- Apply the additional top coat
- Apply the sealers
This guide explains more about the process of recoating microcement surfaces: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/recoating-microcement-surfaces
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Should I install the walls or shower tray first?
We usually recommend applying the microcement before the shower tray / tiles, but you can do it the other way round too.
This guide explains the full process for each approach: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/should-i-fit-the-shower-tray-tiles-or-microcement-first
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Is it possible to cut down Aqua4ma shower decks?
Yes, you can cut down Aqua4ma shower decks using a circular saw or handsaw, but there is a limit to how much can be cut off.
The Kudos Aqua4ma installation guides give a lot more detail about the process for cutting down the shower decks:
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How do you add fixtures & fittings to microcement after it’s been installed?
Microcement is a thin surface coating that is applied to a rigid surface. It won’t shatter when you drill or cut through it, so you just need to use tools that are suitable for the substrate.
You will also need to use silicone to prevent water getting behind the Microcement through any open edges.
Here’s a guide which explains the full process and appropriate timings: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/fixing-to-microcement-surfaces
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How do you mix colours in smaller batches than 10kg?
The best way to split the colour toners for MicroDur Base, Medium or Fine is to measure out the full amount of water for 10kg microcement & then add the colour toner for 10kg Microcement to it.
Use the water to make sure you get all the colour out of the bottle and stir it in well.
Then you can take the amount of water that you need for each kg & be confident that the colour will be consistent across all the batches.
For example if you have 10kg Microdur Medium.
Add the Colour Toner for Microdur Medium to 3l water.
Then use 300ml water/toner mix for every 1kg Microdur Medium.
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How do you achieve the shuttered concrete effect with microcement?
It's really easy to create a "shuttered concrete" effect & you don't need all the products in the kit.
You will need Primer 100 for the walls, then apply microdur base (not waterproof) of microne base (waterproof) quite thickly onto the wall. Then gently press the Perspex sheets (coated in bond release agent) onto the surface & leave to dry until the following day, when you can peal it off.
The great thing about using perspex sheets is that you can see through them and decide how many air bubbles you want in the finish.
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Should I mix Microne Plus in smaller batches than 10kg?
Yes, definitely, since Microne Plus has a limited working time, it's best to only mix what you need for each coat separately. So, you can take your time to complete each coat & then mix a fresh batch when you are ready to do the next coat.
You will need around 500g Microne & 25ml Microne Plus Comp B per m2 for each coat.
So for 10m2, mix 5kg Microne & 250ml Microne Plus Comp B for each coat.
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How do you apply mesh along worktop & table edges?
Run self-adhesive corner mesh or scrim tape along the edge. Press it firmly onto the surface to ensure good adhesion, then cut away any excess with a utility knife. If there is a large amount of excess tape, you can wrap it onto adjacent surfaces, ensuring it is fixed securely in place by the adhesive.
There’s more detail in our guide to applying mesh along worktop & table edges: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/applying-mesh-along-worktop-table-edges
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Is it possible to apply products, like paint or tiles on top of microcement surfaces?
Yes it is possible, but it’s best to check with the manufacturer of the coating that you have in mind, to see if their product can be applied onto a surface that has been sealed polyurethane.
This guide explains more about applying new coatings on top of microcement surfaces: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/applying-new-coatings-over-existing-microcement
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Can I seamlessly integrate fittings, like extractors & toilet flushes, into the Microcement surface?
Microcement can be applied across integrated fittings seamlessly, but it is important that both the surfaces are prepared correctly in advance.
This guide explains more about how to approach it: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/can-i-seamlessly-integrate-fittings-into-the-microcement
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Can I use a plasterer’s trowel to apply microcement?
Whilst microcement can be applied, with any trowel, you will find it a lot easier to use a trowel that has been specifically designed for microcement, like the Bi-Flex Trowel.
This guide explains more about the differences & why we tend to recommend the bi-flex: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/can-i-use-a-plasterers-trowel-on-microcement
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Can I use microcement in a car garage floor?
You can use microcement on car garage floors.
Because of the weight of the cars and the rubber on the tyres, there’s a very specific combination of products that can be used on car garage floors.
Here’s a guide which explains more about the build up required: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/choosing-the-right-microcement-for-car-garages
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Which sealer should I choose?
All of our sealers are very high quality & offer excellent protection for microcement surfaces.
Here's a brief overview of each of the sealers that we offer, with a summary of the main differences between them & some guidance on which one to use where: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/choosing-the-right-microcement-sealer
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Can I complete microcement surfaces separately or do I have to do them all at the same time?
We understand it isn’t always possible to complete all of the microcement surfaces at the same time.
Here is our guide to completing microcement surfaces in separate sections without compromising the performance or appearance of your work: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/completing-microcement-surfaces-separately
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How often do you need to reseal microcement surfaces?
There’s no set time for how often the microcement needs to be resealed. Once a microcement surface is sufficiently sealed, it will remain strong and stain resistant for years to come.
However, if you do start to notice signs of wear & tear after a few years, then it most likely needs an additional coat of sealer.
This guide tells you more about when you might need to consider resealing the surface & how to go about it: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/resealing-microcement-surfaces
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How do you reseal microcement surfaces?
Take care to cover down adjoining surfaces like walls or skirting boards & remove kickboards if possible.
Give the microcement surface a good sand with a 220 grit sanding disc. You’re aim is to remove any imperfections and give the surface a key.
You can then go ahead & apply the sealer in the same way that you applied the original coat.
For more information on resealing the surface, view this guide: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/resealing-microcement-surfaces
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Which sanding discs should I use for microcement?
You need to use silicone carbide sanding discs with microcement. You can buy them on our website: relentlessmicrocement.com/product/cemher-microcement-sanding-discs
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Is it possible to seal liquid metal surfaces so they can be used as floors or worktops?
We don’t supply liquid metal kits with hard sealer as standard, because we generally only recommended them for feature walls.
It is possible to use hard sealer on liquid metals, but there are some limitations that you should be aware of, these are covered in this guide: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/sealing-liquid-metal-surfaces
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Should I overlap the mesh?
Fibreglass mesh plays a key role in the microcement system, but it is laid differently from many other cement-based systems.
Because the microcement finish is so thin, how the mesh sits on the surface really matters. The guide below explains more about how to lay the fibreglass mesh alongside microcement.
This guide explains more about overlapping the mesh: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/should-i-overlap-the-mesh
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What is the best way to finish microcement to meet other surfaces and at thresholds?
There are a number of different ways that you can treat the boundaries of the microcement.
This guide goes through some of the common scenarios & explains how to deal with them: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/working-up-to-thresholds-other-surfaces
And this guide goes into the specifics of installing shower trays / tiled floors in wet areas alongside microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/should-i-fit-the-shower-tray-tiles-or-microcement-first
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How do you drill or screw into microcement surface?
You can drill into microcement, just use a drill bit that is suitable for the substrate, and use silicone to prevent water getting behind the microcement to the substrate.
This guide explains more about the process for fixing to microcement surfaces: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/fixing-to-microcement-surfaces
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How do you install microcement around a shower waste?
Tape up the shower waste so that you protect it from any product falling down the waste.
It’s best to work up to a clean edge between the 2 surface. Aqua4ma shower trays are great for applying microcement to, because, once the grill plate is inserted into the waste, you will have a straight edge to work up to.
Complete the full microcement process, including sealer, then apply a bead of silicone along the join.
These guides give more detailed information on each of the above steps:
Preparing Shower Trays for Microcement:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-rigid-shower-trays-for-microcement
Applying Microne Medium:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/applying-microne-medium
Applying Silicone to the Join between Microcement & Shower Wastes:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/applying-silicone-to-the-join-between-microcement-shower-wastes
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Should I use silicone around open edges?
Yes, this is absolutely crucial for preventing water getting underneath the microcement & causing problems with the substrate.
The microcement that we recommend for bathrooms is completely waterproof on the surface, but if water gets behind the surface it may damage the substrate & cause the microcement to delaminate.
It’s essential that all external edges including cuts and holes made whilst fixing fittings to the surface are completely sealed, so that no water can get behind them.
Squeeze silicone directly into the raw screw hole before inserting your wall plug/screw. And fully surround the perimeter of any mounted fittings (like shower valves, taps, or brackets) with silicone.
Silicone sealants must be 100% silicone in order to adhere to the microcement.
Pro Tip: Use a coloured silicone that matches the microcement for a more discreet seal. Mapei offer a good selection of 100% silicones that are available in a wide range of colours under the brand name Mapesil AC.
This guide demonstrates the best way to apply silicone around shower wastes: Applying Silicone to the Join between Microcement & Shower Wastes:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/applying-silicone-to-the-join-between-microcement-shower-wastes
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Which colour toners should I add to which products?
Usually we supply colour toners for the 2nd base coat & the top coats. Here’s a quick summary of each of the coats & what colour you should have for each one.
1st Base Coat: No Colour Toner
It’s best to apply the 1st base coat without any colour toner, so that it neutralises the colour of the substrate. For this reason, we don’t usually supply any colour for the 1st base coat.
2nd Base Coat: Hint of Colour for Microcement Base Coat
Adding a “Hint of Colour” to the 2nd base coat ensures that the colour will remain consistent, even if the top coats are sanded back too far.
Usually, this is supplied in a bottle labelled “Hint of Colour for Microcement Base Coat”.
This needs to be added & mixed in to the 2nd base coat.
You should have enough “Hint of Colour” to add to half of the base coat supplied.
Sometimes this will mean splitting a tub, in which case, the weight of microcement that it should be added to is shown on the label. Weight out the amount of microcement shown & add the colour toner to it.
Top Coats
The top coats are the ones where colour accuracy is really important.
Wherever possible, we add the colour to the top coat tubs for you, so that we can test it for accuracy before sending it out.
If we have added colour to the tub, we will also add a sticker to the lid that says “Colour toner added”. You don’t need to add any additional colour to the tub in this case, just give it a good mix to make sure the colour is well distributed.
For powdered microcements, we will supply a bottle of Colour Toner for every 10kg of Top Coat. Take care not to mix up the Colour Toner for Top Coat with the Hint of Colour for Base Coats, as they most likely contain a different amount of toner.
Trouble Shooting
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Why do I have crazing cracks in my microcement surface during application?
It may be that the microcement has been applied too thickly, which is why it’s starting to crack. Microcement needs to be applied in very thin coats – no thicker than the grain size.
Click here for an explanation of why this has happened & how to resolve it: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/how-to-avoid-cracks-in-microcement
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Why have I got cracks in the corners of my microcement?
There are 2 scenarios where cracks appear in the corners. Either there is movement between the 2 surfaces, or the microcement is applied too thickly in the corner.
If there is movement, it will need to be eliminated & the microcement sanded, then another coat applied. Use your finger or a corner trowel to really squash the product into the crack to fill it.
If there is a build-up of product in the corner, you'll need to sand off the excess & apply another coat. This video shows the best technique for applying microcement into internal corners: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/how-to-avoid-cracks-in-microcement
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Why has my microcement floor over screed cracked?
When floors crack in straight lines, it’s usually because there has been some movement in the screed, below the microcement, that has caused the floor to crack. Usually the floor cracks at weak points in the floor, like between corners and doorways.
This guide tells you everything you need to know about why straight line cracks appear & how to repair them: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/movement-cracks-after-microcement-installation
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Why don’t I have enough product to finish my microcement installation?
We use standard consumption rates to calculate the quantity of each product that goes into a kit. But it’s not an exact science & occasionally people use more or less than the quantities provided.
Just to put your mind at rest, we haven’t charged you more than you would have paid for the individual products that you received.
We sell the products in Xm2 kits to try to make it easier for customers to get the products that they need. But we feel it’s important to note that this should not be understood as a commitment by us to provide additional products if the stated no. m2 is not met. Hope this makes sense & you understand, it just isn’t sustainable for us to make such a commitment.
For Primer 100, if the surface is very absorbent it may absorb more than 1l Primer 100. On fresh plaster & cement based products, dilute the 1st coat with 50% water & follow with a neat coat. In this case, more Primer may need to be purchased on top of the kit.
And don't feel like you have to use more Primer to stick the mesh down completely, it might just help you to hold it in place, if it's not sticking well then use a staple gun to hold the mesh instead.
For Microcements (excluding Terrazzo/Sparkle), make sure you're using the grain as a level and never apply it any thicker than that. You should apply it as thinly as you possibly can, so that you hear the scraping of the trowel against the previous coat. The 1st base coat will just fill the gaps between the mesh but not cover it.
If you do need to buy any additional products then you can do that online or by getting in touch. relentlessmicrocement.com/get-in-touch
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Why isn’t my Primer holding the fibreglass mesh in place?
Don't feel like you have to use more Primer to stick the mesh down completely. That’s just a handy tip to help you to hold the mesh in place, if it's not sticking well then use a staple gun, with stainless steel staples, to hold the mesh instead.
Once you apply the 1st Base Coat, that will hold the mesh in place securely.
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What can I do about scratches in the microcement surface?
If the scratches are in the sealer, then you can give the surface a gentle sand with a 220 grit sanding disc & apply an additional coat of sealer. This should fill the scratches & add more protection to the surface.
Visit this guide for more information on resealing the surface: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/resealing-microcement-surfaces
If the scratch has gone deeper into the microcement surface, then you will need to repair the microcement too. This guide explains the best approach for touching up microcement surfaces: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/touching-up-microcement
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Is it possbile to touch up microcement?
Microcement is notoriously difficult to patch, and almost impossible to do seamlessly. Touch ups are intended to take your eye off an imperfection, but don’t expect a seamless repair, as that is very difficult to achieve.
Here's a guide to touching up the microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/touching-up-microcement
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Why have I got blisters in my microcement surface?
Because Microne, the product that we recommend for bathrooms, is 100% waterproof, it won’t allow any water to penetrate through it. Which is absolutely necessary in bathrooms, wet rooms and showers.
If water gets to the underside of the microcement, however, it will become trapped under the surface & if the water pressure builds up, it could result in a blister of water forming under the surface.
This guide explains more about how to prevent blisters from forming & how to repair surfaces where blistering has occurred: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/blisters-in-microcement-surfaces
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Why have I got dark marks in my microcement surface after trowelling?
This happens when the surface has been trowelled a lot of times with a lot of pressure on the trowel. As the steel of the trowel is rubbed over the surface, it causes the surface to blacken in areas.
The areas that blacken more tend to be raised slightly more than the rest of the surface. So the blackening might highlight trowel marks left in the previous coat or imperfections in the substrate.
This guide explains more about why they happen & how to control the appearance of the microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/dark-marks-after-trowelling
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How do you remove mould patches from the Microcement surface?
If you have noticed black, yellow or orange marks appearing slowly over time on the microcement surface, it may be mould that is slowly forming on the surface.
Most of the time these can be wiped away easily & controlled with regular cleaning, but if left unnoticed they can becme more stubborn.
This guide explains the best way to deal with mould patches that have developed on the microcement surface: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/mould-patches-on-the-microcement
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How do I remove stains from microcement surfaces?
If you do discover stains on the surface, then try scrubbing cleaning product into the stain with a white scouring sponge. To see if that starts shifting it.
If that doesn’t work, try scrubbing it with bleach. Make sure the bleach is washed away with water so that the surface is neutralised within 15 minutes, in order to prevent damage to the sealer.
And as an absolute last resort, you can use a 220 or 120 grit sanding disc to sand back the surface to remove the stain and then apply another coat of sealer, to replace any that you have sanded off.
Here's a useful guide which explains further: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/stains-on-the-microcement-surface
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Why have I got yellow marks on the microcement surface after sealing it with Maxipur?
If you have discovered yellow patches or a yellow film on the surface of the microcement after applying a solvent based sealer, like MaxiPur, it may be that there was some on site contamination or the rollers used were not suitable for use with solvents.
This guide explains more about why this happens & how to resolve it: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/yellowing-following-application-of-solvent-based-sealer
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Can I use microcement base coat or Joint Filler to build up my substrate?
Microcement base coat & joint filler don't have the body to be used to build up surfaces or fill gaps more than around 2 or 3mm, if it's applied too thickly, it will eggshell & be weak in those areas.
To build up surfaces, use a product that is suitable for use with the substrate, will set hard & is intended to be applied at the depth required.
Generally, concrete repair mortars are good for building up cement-based products, like cement board & screeds, but always check with the manufacturer of the product that you’re thinking of using to be sure that it’s suitable & if any accompanying product or prep work is required, like primers.
You can also use a cement-based repair mortar on top of microcement base coat, as long as the surface hasn’t been sealed. Again follow the manufacturers guidance on application.
You could also consider boarding over the surface or using a self-leveller to get to the right level.
Just make sure whatever you do, you respect the falls towards the shower waste.
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Why have I got black plastic shavings in the microcement mortar?
Black plastic shavings in the mix are normally caused when the microcement is mixed too aggressively in the black Cemher tubs that the microcement is delivered in.
Here are some tips that will help you to avoid mixing too aggressively & explain how to recover your mortar: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/black-plastic-shavings-in-the-microcement-mortar
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Why have I got Dark or Red Marks in my microcement surface after sanding?
You need to use silicone carbide sanding discs with microcement. You can buy them on our website: relentlessmicrocement.com/product/cemher-microcement-sanding-discs
Some of the less strong ones, like Aluminium Oxide, can leave their colour on the surface as the cement wears them down instead. This should just be dust so you can hopefully dust it off.
This guide explains more about why this happens & how to fix it: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/dark-or-red-marks-after-sanding
If you find the silicone carbide disc that you are using is wearing down too quickly, then try a lower grit.
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Why are the grout lines visible in microcement finish?
Grout lines should be dry before the microcement is applied. If the grout lines still contain moisture when the microcement is applied, the moisture gets trapped under the surface & can change the colour of the microcement along the grout lines, causing them to be visible in the surface of the microcement.
If the grout lines aren’t sufficiently flushed out, so that the surface isn’t completely flat, the grout lines may also be visible.
This guide explains more about why you might be seeing grout lines & describes the best way to resolve the problem: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/grout-lines-visible-in-microcement-finish
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Why isn’t my microcement floor strong enough?
The microcement that we recommend for floors is very hard, at around 28-50N/mm2, depending on the spec. It has a higher compressive strength than most concretes.
To put those figures into some context, this means that 1m2 of the microcement can hold 2.8 – 5 tonnes of weight without deforming.
If your microcement flooring isn’t proving to be as strong as this, then there is most likely a problem with the microcement application or the substrate it was applied to.
This guide outlines the most common reasons for weaknesses in microcement floors: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/microcement-floor-isnt-strong-enough
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Why has my microcement floor over boards cracked?
Microcement is very strong, but it is dependent on the surface that it is being applied to for support.
If you’ve discovered straight line cracks in your boarded, microcement floor after the microcement has been installed, it’s most likely because there has been some movement between the boards below the microcement.
This guide tells you everything you need to know about why they might have appeared and what you can do to fix them: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/movement-cracks-after-microcement-installation-boarded-floors
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Why doesn’t my microcement colour look right?
There may be a very simple explanation for the colour not appearing to be a good match, this guide explains some of the different reasons why this may be the case: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/my-colour-doesnt-look-right
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How can I block a persistent stain from appearing in my microcement?
We always recommend that surfaces are clean & dry before microcement is applied. This can sometimes be difficult to achieve, particularly on older floors, where unknown spills have become ingrained in the surface. Or where a lot of spills have occurred previously on site.
If you can see that the floor is stained before you start, or you have suspicions that oil-based products may have been spilled on the surfaces in the past, it’s best to use High-Performance Primer. This is an option on all microcement kit pages.
This guide explains more about how to block persistent stains from appearing in your microcement surface: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/blocking-persistent-stains-during-application
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How can I remove Paint or Glue from the microcement surface?
Our microcement sealers are highly resistant to staining from the majority of household products and chemicals. And most of the time they will wipe away easily.
From time to time we do get contacted about stains that are more difficult to remove. Here’s our guide on dealing with stubborn stains in microcement surfaces: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/stains-on-the-microcement-surface
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What is the best way to repair microcement?
We don’t recommend patch repairs generally, because it’s very difficult to do them seamlessly. Repairing, then recoating the entire surface is the only way to achieve a seamless repair.
This guide explains the best process for repairing microcement surfaces: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/repairs-to-microcement-surfaces
Whilst we don’t recommend patching, and can almost guarantee it can’t be done seamlessly, we understand you may want to give it a go, so have written a guide explaining the best approach for minimising visibility of patch repairs: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/microcement-patch-repairs
And here's our guide to touching up the microcement in very small areas, like chips, and into corners: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/touching-up-microcement
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Why have I got stains showing through in the microcement from my plywood surface?
From time to time, we hear of problems when applying microcement over plywood, this is due to a fault in the manufacturing process of the ply.
This guide tells you everything that you need to know about why it happens & how to resolve it: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/stains-in-microcement-installed-over-plywood
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What should I do to fix water ingress in a microcement surface?
Water is very good at finding its way through any open or unsealed gaps.
If you’re adding fixtures & fittings to microcement surfaces, it’s important to apply silicone along open edges & around fixtures & fittings to avoid problems with water ingress.
If any open edges or fittings have been missed in wet areas, or if the silicone has failed over time, it is possible that water could find its way behind the microcement.
This guide explains how to repair microcement surfaces where water has got behind the surface to the substrate: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/water-ingress-on-microcement-surfaces
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What can I do to fix water marks caused by pools of water sitting on the surface?
The microcement that we recommend for bathrooms, wet rooms & showers is completely waterproof, but if water is left sitting on the surface for prolonged time periods, it can start to leave a watermark over time.
This is because there is an element of breathability to the sealers, they are not intended to be fully submersed for several hours.
When the surface is dried out, the water mark should disappear.
Here’s our guide to repairing surfaces where water has pooled: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/water-marks-caused-by-pools-of-water
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What can I do to fix water marks in microdur & other traditional microcement surfaces?
Historically, porous micocements like Microdur, mixed with water, were the only option available to installers. And it was the Hydroprimer that soaked into the surface to saturate it, followed by AquaMax or MaxiPur, adding a hard surface protection, that made the system waterproof.
This system works well, but only if there is sufficient sealer across the entire area. Even a single pinhole, caused by an air bubble, in the microcement, or the sealer, can allow water to penetrate through to the microcement & cause a water mark.
Usually, the surface will darken where water has penetrated through to the microcement, but it should dry out & return to a normal colour once the area has been left to dry.
It’s important that you act quickly to avoid the water mark becoming a permanent stain.
This guide explains more about how to resolve water marks in the surface of a traditional microcement floor: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/water-marks-in-microdur-other-traditional-microcements
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What chemicals can I use on Microcement surfaces?
Sometimes, things don’t exactly go to plan & with other trades & building materials on site during & after microcement installations, it’s not unheard of for building materials and other chemicals to be spilled on the surface of the microcement.
Likewise, you may find certain stains take more than your average cleaning product to remove.
This guide explains more about using chemicals on the microcement surface: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/what-chemicals-can-i-use-on-microcement-surfaces
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Why is my non-burnishing plastic trowel is wearing down so quickly?
It’s best only to use the non-burnishing plastic trowels for top coats, as the base coats will wear them down quite quickly.
If the edge has become uneven, so that it’s dragging through the microcement, sand the edge of the trowel to get it flat & sharp again.
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Why is my microcement taking longer to dry?
Drying times depend on the specific products used, as well as the site conditions, like temperature & ventilation, and the thickness of the product.
If the microcement has been applied thicker than the grain in the product, it will take longer than expected for it to dry.
This guide demonstrates the correct technique for applying microcement:
relentlessmicrocement.com/training/correct-application-of-microcement
If it is taking longer to dry than expected, you will need to wait until it has dried full before moving to the next stage.
Generally, good ventilation and a relatively warm environment will encourage the microcement to dry quicker. So, if you can get a fan in the room & turn the heating on, that will help to speed up the drying process.
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I forgot to add the Hint of Colour to my base coat
Adding a “Hint of Colour” to the 2nd base coat ensures that the colour will remain consistent, even if the top coats are sanded back too far.
If the hint of colour hasn’t been added, the impact that will have does depend on the colour that you are working with.
For very dark colours, there is more risk of the white in the base coat showing through when you sand the surface. So you may want to add a 3rd base coat with colour, or take extra care when sanding not to sand the top coat back too far.
For lighter colours, it’s less of an issue, as the base coats don’t need to be a perfect match with the top coat, just not too contrasting.
If you do want to purchase additional colours, you can buy them separately here: relentlessmicrocement.com/product-category/microcement-products/microcement-colour-toners
And to purchase additional microcement mortars, click here: relentlessmicrocement.com/product-category/microcement-products/microcement-mortars
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It doesn’t look like there’s any colour in the colour toner bottle
There may be just a very small amount of thick colour toner in the bottom of the bottle. Which may look like its dried up.
This is because the colour toners are measured out to suit the colour & product that they are being added to. Sometimes, it only requires a very small amount of toner to get it to the right colour. And the colour toners themselves are very concentrated.
To get all of the colour out of the bottle, add a small amount of water & shake it well, this will dilute the colour so that you can mix it in to the tub.
Aftercare
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What can I use to clean microcement?
Our microcement is very versatile & the sealers are extremely resilient to most household cleaning products.
Regular cleaning with pH neutral cleaning products will ensure the microcement keeps in good condition.
Steam cleaners can be used on all microcement surfaces except for those with Microdur top coats.
You can use bleach or mould cleaner stubborn stains but always neutralise the surface once cleaning is complete & don’t use aggressive cleaning products regularly.
There’s more information on cleaning microcement surfaces in our Aftercare guide:
relentlessmicrocement.com/microcement-training-and-installation-guides/after-care
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How should I care for my newly installed microcement surface?
Microcement & Microcement Sealers harden over time. They’re most delicate for the 1st few days and weeks. They slowly strengthen as time goes on, until they reach close to full strength at around 28 days.
Visit our aftercare guide to see how newly laid microcement surfaces should be cared for in the 1st few days:
relentlessmicrocement.com/microcement-training-and-installation-guides/after-care
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