Application Techniques

If you’re getting bubbles in the mesh whilst using Primer 100, slash the bubble with a knife or the edge of the trowel and go over it again with the roller, this should stick it back down flat to the surface.

If you notice bubbles after the Primer has dried or whilst you are applying your first base coat, you can use the same technique to flatten the bubble whilst applying your 1st Base Coat.

This guide explains how to deal with bubbles that appear in the mesh during application: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/fixing-bubbles-in-fibreglass-mesh-during-application

Yes, you can recoat the mirocement after sealers have been applied, but you need to follow these steps:

1. Give the surface a good sand to give it a key & flatten any ridges / thicker areas which will remove any cracks
2. Prime the surface with Primer 100, then wait around 1 hour
3. Apply 2 top coats (you will probably find that the 1st goes on a bit grainy, which is why we recommend 2)
4. Reapply the sealers

This guide explains more about the process of recoating microcement surfaces: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/recoating-microcement-surfaces

Whether you want to change the colour or aren’t happy with the appearance, it is quite straight forward to apply an additional coat as long as the sealers haven’t been applied.

This is a summary of the process for recoating before sealers:

1. Give the surface a good sand to give it a key & flatten any ridges / thicker areas which will remove any cracks
2. Apply the additional top coat
3. Apply the sealers

This guide explains more about the process of recoating microcement surfaces: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/recoating-microcement-surfaces

We usually recommend applying the microcement before the shower tray / tiles, but you can do it the other way round too.

This guide explains the full process for each approach: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/should-i-fit-the-shower-tray-tiles-or-microcement-first

Yes, you can cut down Aqua4ma shower decks using a circular saw or handsaw, but there is a limit to how much can be cut off.

The Kudos Aqua4ma installation guides give a lot more detail about the process for cutting down the shower decks:

relentlessmicrocement.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/Aqua4ma-Evolution-Centre-Waste-Waste-Installation-Instructions-rev01.pdf

Microcement is a thin surface coating that is applied to a rigid surface. It won’t shatter when you drill or cut through it, so you just need to use tools that are suitable for the substrate.

You will also need to use silicone to prevent water getting behind the Microcement through any open edges.

Here’s a guide which explains the full process and appropriate timings: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/fixing-to-microcement-surfaces

The best way to split the colour toners for MicroDur Base, Medium or Fine is to measure out the full amount of water for 10kg microcement & then add the colour toner for 10kg Microcement to it.

Use the water to make sure you get all the colour out of the bottle and stir it in well.

Then you can take the amount of water that you need for each kg & be confident that the colour will be consistent across all the batches.

For example if you have 10kg Microdur Medium.

Add the Colour Toner for Microdur Medium to 3l water.

Then use 300ml water/toner mix for every 1kg Microdur Medium.

It's really easy to create a "shuttered concrete" effect & you don't need all the products in the kit.

You will need Primer 100 for the walls, then apply microdur base (not waterproof) of microne base (waterproof) quite thickly onto the wall. Then gently press the Perspex sheets (coated in bond release agent) onto the surface & leave to dry until the following day, when you can peal it off.

The great thing about using perspex sheets is that you can see through them and decide how many air bubbles you want in the finish.

Yes, definitely, since Microne Plus has a limited working time, it's best to only mix what you need for each coat separately. So, you can take your time to complete each coat & then mix a fresh batch when you are ready to do the next coat.

You will need around 500g Microne & 25ml Microne Plus Comp B per m2 for each coat.

So for 10m2, mix 5kg Microne & 250ml Microne Plus Comp B for each coat.

Run self-adhesive corner mesh or scrim tape along the edge. Press it firmly onto the surface to ensure good adhesion, then cut away any excess with a utility knife. If there is a large amount of excess tape, you can wrap it onto adjacent surfaces, ensuring it is fixed securely in place by the adhesive.

There’s more detail in our guide to applying mesh along worktop & table edges: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/applying-mesh-along-worktop-table-edges

Yes it is possible, but it’s best to check with the manufacturer of the coating that you have in mind, to see if their product can be applied onto a surface that has been sealed polyurethane.

This guide explains more about applying new coatings on top of microcement surfaces: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/applying-new-coatings-over-existing-microcement

Microcement can be applied across integrated fittings seamlessly, but it is important that both the surfaces are prepared correctly in advance.

This guide explains more about how to approach it: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/can-i-seamlessly-integrate-fittings-into-the-microcement

Whilst microcement can be applied, with any trowel, you will find it a lot easier to use a trowel that has been specifically designed for microcement, like the Bi-Flex Trowel.

This guide explains more about the differences & why we tend to recommend the bi-flex: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/can-i-use-a-plasterers-trowel-on-microcement

You can use microcement on car garage floors.

Because of the weight of the cars and the rubber on the tyres, there’s a very specific combination of products that can be used on car garage floors.

Here’s a guide which explains more about the build up required: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/choosing-the-right-microcement-for-car-garages

All of our sealers are very high quality & offer excellent protection for microcement surfaces.

Here's a brief overview of each of the sealers that we offer, with a summary of the main differences between them & some guidance on which one to use where: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/choosing-the-right-microcement-sealer

We understand it isn’t always possible to complete all of the microcement surfaces at the same time.

Here is our guide to completing microcement surfaces in separate sections without compromising the performance or appearance of your work: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/completing-microcement-surfaces-separately

There’s no set time for how often the microcement needs to be resealed. Once a microcement surface is sufficiently sealed, it will remain strong and stain resistant for years to come.

However, if you do start to notice signs of wear & tear after a few years, then it most likely needs an additional coat of sealer.

This guide tells you more about when you might need to consider resealing the surface & how to go about it: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/resealing-microcement-surfaces

Take care to cover down adjoining surfaces like walls or skirting boards & remove kickboards if possible.

Give the microcement surface a good sand with a 220 grit sanding disc. You’re aim is to remove any imperfections and give the surface a key.

You can then go ahead & apply the sealer in the same way that you applied the original coat.

For more information on resealing the surface, view this guide: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/resealing-microcement-surfaces

You need to use silicone carbide sanding discs with microcement. You can buy them on our website: relentlessmicrocement.com/product/cemher-microcement-sanding-discs

We don’t supply liquid metal kits with hard sealer as standard, because we generally only recommended them for feature walls.

It is possible to use hard sealer on liquid metals, but there are some limitations that you should be aware of, these are covered in this guide: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/sealing-liquid-metal-surfaces

Fibreglass mesh plays a key role in the microcement system, but it is laid differently from many other cement-based systems.

Because the microcement finish is so thin, how the mesh sits on the surface really matters. The guide below explains more about how to lay the fibreglass mesh alongside microcement.

This guide explains more about overlapping the mesh: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/should-i-overlap-the-mesh

There are a number of different ways that you can treat the boundaries of the microcement.

This guide goes through some of the common scenarios & explains how to deal with them: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/working-up-to-thresholds-other-surfaces

And this guide goes into the specifics of installing shower trays / tiled floors in wet areas alongside microcement: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/should-i-fit-the-shower-tray-tiles-or-microcement-first

You can drill into microcement, just use a drill bit that is suitable for the substrate, and use silicone to prevent water getting behind the microcement to the substrate.

This guide explains more about the process for fixing to microcement surfaces: relentlessmicrocement.com/training/fixing-to-microcement-surfaces

Tape up the shower waste so that you protect it from any product falling down the waste.

It’s best to work up to a clean edge between the 2 surface. Aqua4ma shower trays are great for applying microcement to, because, once the grill plate is inserted into the waste, you will have a straight edge to work up to.

Complete the full microcement process, including sealer, then apply a bead of silicone along the join.

These guides give more detailed information on each of the above steps:

Preparing Shower Trays for Microcement:

relentlessmicrocement.com/training/preparing-rigid-shower-trays-for-microcement

Applying Microne Medium:

relentlessmicrocement.com/training/applying-microne-medium

Applying Silicone to the Join between Microcement & Shower Wastes:

relentlessmicrocement.com/training/applying-silicone-to-the-join-between-microcement-shower-wastes

Yes, this is absolutely crucial for preventing water getting underneath the microcement & causing problems with the substrate.

The microcement that we recommend for bathrooms is completely waterproof on the surface, but if water gets behind the surface it may damage the substrate & cause the microcement to delaminate.

It’s essential that all external edges including cuts and holes made whilst fixing fittings to the surface are completely sealed, so that no water can get behind them.

Squeeze silicone directly into the raw screw hole before inserting your wall plug/screw. And fully surround the perimeter of any mounted fittings (like shower valves, taps, or brackets) with silicone.

Silicone sealants must be 100% silicone in order to adhere to the microcement.

Pro Tip: Use a coloured silicone that matches the microcement for a more discreet seal. Mapei offer a good selection of 100% silicones that are available in a wide range of colours under the brand name Mapesil AC.

This guide demonstrates the best way to apply silicone around shower wastes: Applying Silicone to the Join between Microcement & Shower Wastes:

relentlessmicrocement.com/training/applying-silicone-to-the-join-between-microcement-shower-wastes

Usually we supply colour toners for the 2nd base coat & the top coats. Here’s a quick summary of each of the coats & what colour you should have for each one.

1st Base Coat: No Colour Toner

It’s best to apply the 1st base coat without any colour toner, so that it neutralises the colour of the substrate. For this reason, we don’t usually supply any colour for the 1st base coat.

2nd Base Coat: Hint of Colour for Microcement Base Coat

Adding a “Hint of Colour” to the 2nd base coat ensures that the colour will remain consistent, even if the top coats are sanded back too far.

Usually, this is supplied in a bottle labelled “Hint of Colour for Microcement Base Coat”.

This needs to be added & mixed in to the 2nd base coat.

You should have enough “Hint of Colour” to add to half of the base coat supplied.

Sometimes this will mean splitting a tub, in which case, the weight of microcement that it should be added to is shown on the label. Weight out the amount of microcement shown & add the colour toner to it.

Top Coats

The top coats are the ones where colour accuracy is really important.

Wherever possible, we add the colour to the top coat tubs for you, so that we can test it for accuracy before sending it out.

If we have added colour to the tub, we will also add a sticker to the lid that says “Colour toner added”. You don’t need to add any additional colour to the tub in this case, just give it a good mix to make sure the colour is well distributed.

For powdered microcements, we will supply a bottle of Colour Toner for every 10kg of Top Coat. Take care not to mix up the Colour Toner for Top Coat with the Hint of Colour for Base Coats, as they most likely contain a different amount of toner.