Working Up to Thresholds & Other Surfaces

Working Up to Thresholds & Other Surfaces

Not every job is the same, and the approach will vary depending on the surface that you are working up to with the microcement.

Here we cover some of the more common types of thresholds that you might come across when applying microcement.

Applying Microcement up to an Existing Microcement Surface

If you have already completed one surface in microcement & would like to apply microcement in an adjoining area up to the microcement surface, it’s always better to work up to a straight edge rather than trying to blend the microcement.  Microcement is notoriously difficult to patch, so a subtle straight line will always look cleaner than blending.

Applying Microcement to a Continuous Surface

If you are applying microcement to a continuous surface like a wall, and you want to get a clean edge.  We’d usually recommend taping a straight edge and working up to the tape rather than using stop beads.

Taping a Straight Edge

Draw a straight line where you would like the microcement to stop.

Use a suitable tape to protect the surface, like masking tape, then apply gaffer tape on top.  The masking tape will protect the surface, and because it is stronger, the gaffer tape will peel back easier at the end of the installation.

Complete the full microcement process, before peeling off the Gaffer Tape to reveal a clean straight edge.  If the microcement has built up a lot, you may decide to retape after the base coats.  You may also need to use a utility knife along the line to loosen the tape & get a clean edge.

Working Up to a Stop Bead

If your microcement is meeting another material, like tiles, it may be better to use a stop bead.  Make sure it is well fixed in place and flushed out flat before applying microcement over it.

Stop beads will need to be no more than 4mm in depth.

This guide explains more on fitting & working up to stop beads:

Using Angle Beads, Stop Beads and Expansion Beads with Microcement